Is there a safe way to run either an extension cord or permanent wire under carpeting that is on a slab? I know the danger of a raw extension cord under carpet. Can I put that in some protective sheath or conduit or is that still a fire hazard. Our furniture is set up such that nothing is against a wall (two couches form a sort of island with a lamp between them). There's no way to get the lamp plugged in without an extension cord - either above or below the carpet. Finally, what if I replace the extension cord with normal house wire - is that any safer under the carpet or does that also need to be in some protective casing? Thanks for any help or ideas. Bill Any wiring under carpeting is a bad idea , esp if its in or close to a traffic area . Either use an approved entension cord or have an addition outlet installed . My official recommendation is NO, I agree with Lear A more permanent solution would be install a new outlet/plug. the problem with extension cords under the carpet is 1st you can't see them and they will get walked on , furniture could be sat on them. I know some people do as you say as you are proposing to do, but we in a public forum gviving advise must look at safety issues and such things as code requirements. If this is an ongoing issue to have power on that other wall, consider running proper wiring thru the walls to a new location and install a peoper new outlet box and plug, in the long run it would be the better solution. If an extension cord is on top the carpet at least you can see it, but can still be an eye sore and what I think you were trying to do is hide it. Depending on where the plug is and where it has to go, perhaps it could be run close to the wall all the way (on top the carpet), it may however result in a longer run and depending on the house may result in crossing a doorway which could be another issue. It is always nice to have plugs on each wall anyway , so that this becomes a non issue as there would be a plug on that side of the wall. Unless you really dealing with a switched plug and you want to control a lamp from the switched plug on the other side of the room. There used to be what is called a flat track conduit. This flat conduit allowes for three conductors and creates a small hump about a 1/4 and is designed for this applications. I am not sure that this flat track conduit is still on the market but believe it is. Go to an electrical wholesale house and ask them to check their specialty wiring products. The conduit is about 4 wide and between 14 and a 1/2 high. Should make a small hump in the carpet you may be able to live with. Good luck Wg Many of the office supply stores sell a flexible rubber track that will lay on top of the carpet. The track peals open from the underside and allows 1-3 cords inside it. It is sometimes sold by the foot, but usually by the box (about 6 feet).
Related Posts:
Wiring a well pump
Wiring a Well PumpWant to power 1hp,230v submersible well pump from a 100 amp panel 60 ft away (75 ft of cable). The well is 80 ft deep and currently has 12 ga wire from the motor to a plug at the...
Thermostat wiring help illustrations included
Thermostat Wiring Help - Illustrations IncludedI recently purchased a Climatouch CT03TS32H programmable thermostat. It's a pretty nice unit that really does a lot more right now than I need, but I...
Wiring light fixture direct to plug
Wiring light fixture direct to plugI have a light fixture with four sockets and each has a white and black wire I looked up briefly and see that most people say connect white wire to the larger (n...
Under carpet radiant heating
Under Carpet Radiant HeatingI'll be putting new carpet in my den, and I'm thinking about installing electric radiant floor heating under the carpet. The den is built on a concrete slab with no bas...
Under deck panels collapsed
Under Deck Panels CollapsedI built two decks, one over the other. The lower is 8’X32’ and the upper is 16’X10’. I wanted to be able to sit on the bottom deck and stay dry in the rain. And I didn’t...
Hello. I'm about to put up a fence and I am looking for a manual post hole auger. Oddly, I can't find one anywhere. Every hardware store sells the inefficient clamshell post hole digger, but doesn't carry the manual post hole auger. Anybody know where to locate one other than renting it from a tool rental place? Whether an auger or clamshells work best depends a LOT on the soil you are dealing with. Here, I deal with clay and hardpan. An auger is pretty useless. Clamshells (with the help of a digging bar!) work fairly well. If you find one at a rental yard, ask for the name brand and search on-line for the co. I rented a manual auger at Home Depot to dig 48 deep holes and it worked great. Another thought -- if you have access, simply call a post hole driller in. Look in the Yellow Pages or the service directory of your local newspaper. Some have mini excavatators with augers, and some have augers mounted on Jeeps. I just had 8 holes for a carport done that way -- 18 diam. and 30 deep. Cost me $160. To pay the crew to dig them by hand would have been close to a GRAND!!
Related Posts:
Replacing post on two rail fence
Replacing post on two rail fenceCan anyone give me the step-by-step procedure to replace a broken post in a two rail fence? Is there a part of the project you have a question about? Otherwise it's...
Where can i find mooreomatic user manual
Where can I find Moore-O-Matic User Manual?Recently we bought a house but we didn't get the remote controls for the garage door opener. It is Moor-O-Matic Z133B. We bought Chamberlain Universal Re...
Use concrete to set wood post
Use concrete to set wood post?hi folks – Hope this is correct forum. I want to replace the roadside mailbox at my house. I want to use either a cedar wood post or a pressure treated wood post. Are...
V73 burnham oil boiler need manual asap please help
#V-73 Burnham Oil Boiler - Need Manual ASAP! Please help!I have looked everywhere, contacted Burnham, and looked at the US Boiler website. This boiler is about 40 years old and they don't have a m...
Young couple building patio and pergola
Young couple building patio and pergolaMy wife and I are in the process of building a 450 sq ft paver patio adjacent to our existing concrete slab. I'm sure we'll have many questions regarding tha...
weedeater featherlite fl20 wont idle, cuts off under load
Hello i have an fl20 featherlite weedeater it has ran great for about 5 yrs and now it will not run, when cranked it immediately dies, and if it does run a few seconds it dies under load, when i move the choke lever to choke and back to run it revs up high and dies again, could anyone help me troubleshoot this problem? i have taken the muffler off to check spark arrestor clogging and also sprayed carb cleaner in the mouth of the carb while running thanks The carb needs cleaning. Might want to check the fuel lines too. Hi could you tell me how you go about cleaning a carb this small, i dont even see any jets, just the mouth of the carb with the butterfly that opens and closes thanks You have to take it off and apart. Make note of how it all comes apart so you can put it back together properly. A digital camera might help. cheese thanks, i was able to find a youtube video and took the carb apart and cleaned, i was very careful with everything, everything went back together nicely and now the machine wont start, any suggestions as to what i have done? thanks for your time Double check the gaskets and diaphragms and make sure they aren't backwards, upside down, or in the wrong order. Not sure what it was, put in fresh gas, pulled a few more times, now running like new after the carb clean, idles great thanks so much
Related Posts:
Tecumseh 6hp tiller engine wont start
Tecumseh 6hp Tiller engine won't startSo I asked my father-in-law to borrow his yard machine tiller. He said if I can fix it, it's mine. The last time it was used was over a year ago and the gas h...
Stihl FS85 weedeater won't start. Carberator adjustmentI have a Stihl Pro FS85 weedeater that has been running fine for years. Now I can't get it to run over an idle. It chokes down when I pull th...
Ryobi string trimmer wont start
Ryobi string trimmer wont startI have a Ryobi string trimmer in the shop that just wont start. It is a CS30 Model 30000. I have spark at the wire end and also the plug is firing. I removed the a/f...
Weedeater fl1500
Weedeater FL1500Im having a problem with the gas going into the carburetor. When I prime it, the fuel goes into the return line but nothing is happening on the filter line. I have the return line...
Weedeater featherlite fuel line problem
Weedeater featherlite fuel line problemHello all! This is a great forum for information! I have an issue with my weedeater. It recently stopped working and I noticed the fuel line inside the tank...
Someone here mentioned a while back that they put in a ventilation fan or something in their crawlspace to help air flow. In the past I have opened our vents and so on to let air flow in the summer. Well so far here in Chattanooga, TN we have had record rains. A month ago we had some flooding. I got just a little and what did get in my sump caught. Now when it was done raining the water that did get in obviously evaporated. Well thing like the outside of my air vents and pipes and so on on got moisture on them. I tried running a fan, but I found that all the humidity outside was being drawn in. So I went to Lowe's and bought a basement grade dehumidifier. I put in the crawlspace, installed a drain pipe and shut all the vents to the outside (per the instructions). That got rid of the moisture on the surface stuff and the ground areas that were wet dried much quicker. Well I have had it running a month now on auto. It never cuts off, but I have heard the compressor or what have you cycle down to where it is off. My concern is the electrical bill. It has gone up slightly, but not significantly. I still have the vents shut and compared to outside temperature its cooler inside, but much drier. I was wondering several things. First, is it proper to use a dehumidifier like I am in a crawlspace? Second, If its on all the time, should I look an additional one? I have this one in the center of the house, but the crawlspace is about 1900 square feet. I was thinking one on each end. Third, should I ditch the demumidifier and go with a ventilation fan and thus open the vents back up? If so, where do I get them or who do I call to install them for me? Fourth, I have plastic all over the floor. I see sometimes moisture on it. Should I pull the plastic up to let the ground dry? Especially for those areas that have gotten wet from seepage. Any suggestions would be appreciated. My ultimate goal is to dry out the places that are still moist. Luckily I have no mold or mildew and the lowes point of the crawl space is about 3 1/2 to 4ft. The wood appears to have no moisture damage. Thanks in advance. jdaresta, I assume that where you live, humidity is an issue. I would open your vents to allow for air flow as this will assist in air movement which is essential to relieving any moisture. I would not remove the plastic over the soils as this prevents more moisture from penetrating the space from the soils below. A larger dehumidifier might be in order and yes, this takes electricity but you really shouldn't have to nor should you use this. The vents should be adequate as this is not a habitable space. I think that trying to do more in a crawl space is a waste of money. As long as your foundations is solid, no liquid water getting to the floor joist system, things are fine. The rains that have been coming lately have caused some problems but this considered a infrequent thing. If necessary, add more vents to the foundation. Code says 1 SF opening per 150 SF of underfloor space. At least one vent should be placed within 3 feet of each corner. This will provide for good cross ventilation. A small fan to assist in ventilation is an option that is viable but no need for anything more than this. Hope this helps! Sorry I have to go 100% the other way. Dont vent the crawl way or fans to bring more air in. The ground there is cool and if you bring in the warm air from out side we fine it just makes more water there. You said you had a VB down on the ground is it good? The gov. calls for 6 mil poly with a 2ft overlap and up the walls 2' all seams taped. Let that dehumidifier run to help get the water out of there. It will help so your floors dont swell up on you .Have had this happen. Have a boy there by you so been there done that There is a simple rule when it comes to moisture control that one should follow. That is warm air condenses against cooler surfaces. This makes crawl space susceptible to condensation. With that in mind venting a crawl space is determined by which area has the greater humidity level. For example, if the air outside contains more humidity than the crawl space, you would not ventilate the crawl space. On the other hand if the air outside contains less humidity than the crawl space, then you would want to ventilate the crawl space. Naturally this will vary from time to time. You base this on the majority of time. For example if you lived in an area where it was hot and humid most of the summer, then you would not want to ventilate the crawl space and vice-versa. Insulating the crawl space is determined by the way you decide to ventilate the area. For example, if you don't ventilate the crawl space, then insulate the walls of the crawl space. If you ventilate the crawl space, then insulate the ceiling of the crawl space. There are instances when both are done. Meaning to say the walls and ceiling in the crawl space are insulated. An example here is lake shore property in an area that experiences cold winters and hot humid weather in the summer. In the summer the crawl space is not ventilated and in the winter it is. Hence the need for insulating both the walls and ceiling in the crawl space.
Related Posts:
Water in crawlspace
Water in crawlspaceWe have lived our house which is about 34 years old and had a problem that happens when we have really heavy rains (I live in Chattanooga, TN). There are certain places in out c...
Which liner for crawlspace
Which liner for crawlspace?My house is a front to back split. You walk in to the living room and the kitchen is to the right. Below it is a crawlspace. You can enter the crawlspace by walking down...
Sealing up foundation vents
Sealing up foundation vents?It seems like conventional wisdom is changing out there to the point where it is no longer recommended to install foundation vents around your house. Evidently, thinkin...
Use plastic to cover dirt floor of crawl space or not
Use plastic to cover dirt floor of crawl space or not?I am reading posts about using plastic to cover the ground of the crawl space. Some say to do so, some say that it would be better to use a de...
Sealingencapsulating crawl space
Sealing/encapsulating crawl spaceHello all! New member, have been reading and enjoying the forum. I have a fairly extensive post here. I have been researching sealing/encapsulating of crawl spaces...
I need to dig a trench to bury a 125' long pipe for a sump pump disharge. The trench will folow the natural slope away from the house down by the lake that I live on. It won't drain into the lake, but into a wetland area between the house and lake. The wetland area is not that wet, and I use it as part of my yard, so I don't want the water to pool up at the end of the pipe. My question is what size and type of pipe should I use? I was thinking of 3 perforated PVC wrapped in fabric. Does this sound adequate, or does somebody have a better idea? Also, will I have to put gravel in the trench under the pipe? Any help is greatly appreciated! 125' seems like a long way to go with PVC - since PVC pipes are rigid, you'll have to spend time joining multiple pipes, which can be a pain. Plus, it can get rather costly for that amount of PVC, not to mention enough fabric to wrap all that pipe. For drainage applications, corrugated high-density polyethylene (HDPE) black plastic pipe seems more typical - it's cheap, you can get it in long 100' rolls so you only have to do one join over 125', and is fairly durable. You can see an example here: http://************/2mxbpw , which shows that a 100' roll is only $46. You may opt to use shorter lengths of pipe, though, and connect them with a cleanout (T connector with a cap on top) so that you can snake out the pipe if it gets clogged for any reason. As for size, you'll note that the above example is 4, which seems to be the most common size for corrugated HDPE drainage pipe. Someone else will have to explain why one would want perforated vs. non-perforated pipe... I understand having perforated pipe at the bottom of a French drain, because you want the water to trickle in to the pipe from the top, but I'm less clear about having perforated pipe when you just want to direct the discharge of a sump pump to a remote location. In my particular case, I just used solid, non-perforated drainage pipe for my sump pump discharge. My reasoning was so that roots theoretically won't grow into perforations on the pipe and clog it up. Oh, p.s. it's not recommended to use HDPE pipe below a certain soil depth - something like 1.2 meters - because it'll get crushed. Hope this is helpful... billin, Thanks for your input. I thought about the flexible pipe, as I won't be burying it that deep, so as to be crushed. My thinking about the perforations was that I was hoping that some of the water would go through the perfs, so as to not completely dishcharge at the end of the run, and hopefully not pooling so bad there. That's kinda why I thought putting gravel under the pipe would help to do that. Cleanouts are a great idea. Didn't even think of that. My sump pit drains into perforated flex pipe. I don't know enough as to why or what's better, but somebody thought this was the best way. There's no gravel around it, as far as I know, but that would obviously allow a faster rate of absorption of the water from the pipe than seeping through dirt. There is a way to keep the water from getting into the lowland around the lake . . . don't run it down there that far. One hundred and fifty feet is a long way, so it is not as though space is tight. Installing a drywell at the end of the line would do the trick. Or you could put a dry well nearer the house with an overflow to a perfed pipe to a second drywell at the end. If you have the space, you could S curve it over the dry land back and forth, giving it a chance to be gone before the end of the line. Letting the gray water near the lake, in my opinion, is a stinko idea. The low land water seeps into the lake and vice versa. I have many of the corrogated drainage pipe collapse. I would avoid it if you could. Go with your original idea of PVC. If for some reason you need to snake the line in the future the pvc will be much safer. The snakes can grab to soft stuff and twist it up. I've had a very similar situation but at the time, never even thought of using corrugated pipe. I used PVC. I hired a trenching company to dig a trench running from my house at the sump pump exit point to the roadside ditch 75' away. There is a natural slope to the terrain and the underground PVD for drainage purposes. Digging the trench cost about $100. I lined up the 3 PVC pipes, 10 of them plus another shorter one and joined them with PVC connectors and the standard cleaner and PVC cement. Once they were all joined, I simply rolled it into the ditch and attached the necessary vertical elbow at the end where I feed the sump water in. Then I just shoved the dirt over the pipe. I also drilled many 1/2 holes into the last 20' of the PVC which in hindsight, I wish I hadn't done. I did it only the last 20' so that the discharged water was far enough away from the house and with the idea that I wouldn't be placing all the discharged water in the ditch which would become a hindrance when mowing the lawn. Now as it turns out, all of the dirt that surrounds that pipe gets saturated because of the large amounts of water I discharge and the grass grows much faster, but only along that over- irrigated 20' x 2' stretch. Looks a little strange. Compounding the problem is the fact that I apparently have an underground spring that runs into my foundation. 3/4 HP pumps have been operating almost non-stop for the better part of the last 8 weeks. Bummer! I'm doing something very similar to Herm's idea of trenching. I bought about 80' of pvc pipe and connectors. I also am picking up a walk-behind trencher this week to dig my trench. My yard is all clay (cannot wait till next month when we get seed finally planted). Anyways, I was wondering how easy and fast the walk-behind trenchers work? The trencher goes up to 3' deep so I'm wondering if I should add my own grade or go with the slope of the land which is very well since my house was built up 4'. The drainage will go into a creek and my sump very rarely runs. (Ran only twice in a hour time span during a very heavy rain storm the other day). Also, I plan on putting a Tee Valve at the house in case the pipe ever does freeze and does back up, but again, my sump very rarely ran in the winter. I could pretty much count the times on my fingers.
Related Posts:
Sump pump outside discharge line qs
sump pump outside discharge line q'sHi all, I am installing a sump pump + backup sump pump in my basement and am planning on running 1+1/2 PVC from the pumps up, through the joist, to the outside....
Sump pump vs drainage system
sump pump vs drainage systemI need to do something about waterproofing my crawl space -- we get water in there after heavy rains -- so, I'm trying to figure out if just a sump pump will take care...
Sump pump backup solutions
Sump Pump Backup SolutionsHere is the background to the problem; I have a sump pump in the house, which has my weeping tiles leading into that pit (not happy with this design). When it rains, that...
Waterpowered sump pump
Water-Powered Sump PumpWith the storms we had this past weekend, we lost power for about 7 hours and I had to manually empty the sump pit with buckets. I'm looking for a backup solution and I was...
Sump pump replacement
sump pump replacementI replaced my sump pump with a 3/4 hp version of this: http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...R3Vlpage=none after I initially installed it, it ran ok, however, water keeps on...
We currently have a 50 Gallon electric water heater and are tired of the huge electric bill. There is a gas access less than a foot away from the water heater location so we figured we'd go with a gas tankless. The Rheem looks to be a good option, heard a couple of good things. My question is about the install, which I understand can get costly. The newest Rheem H95 says it vents with standard PVC, but its 'condensing' (which I don't know what that means). Any thoughts on the 'standard PVC' installation? Just trying to get an idea before we get someone over to look at it, thanks Before you go too far, note that this unit can require up to 199,990 BTU of gas. You may need to run a larger gas line. No problem with PVC exhaust. I have it on my high efficiency furnace and power vent water heater. High efficiency units do generate condensate. you will need to run a small pvc line to a floor drain. Just checked and my Rheem power vent which is a 50 gallon tank, uses 40,000 BTU per hour of run time. Something to think about. Tankless has its place but many people install them and do not get the desired results or savings. How many baths in the home? How many people in the home? You have gas access, but is the enough volume of gas to supply 199,000 BTU? Water quality? Well? City? Most likely you will need to run a dedicated gas line from the gas meter to the unit. Answer these few questions then we can explain about tankless and the limited gallons per minute of hot water they produce. Most are based on a 40 degree temp rise. Which means if you live in florida the ground water is 70F plus 40F rise = 110F degree water from the unit at say 6 gallons per minute. Thats two showers. Run somthing else(like a sink) and the unit will not keep up. But wait.... if you want 120F water, then the gallons per minute go down, and possibly you wont be able to run several fixtures. But wait.... If you live elsewhere the average water temp out of the ground is 55 degrees. 55 + 40 = 95 degree water. Turn it up to get 120F water and the GPM go down. All units advertised with the gallons per minute is based on this. See what I am saying?????? Mike NJ I do see what you mean. Our house is 2 baths, city water. we had a gas line ran for our weber grill not too long ago, and the guy that ran the line seemed to think we had the gas flow to add a tankless. It's just my girlfriend and i living in the house so I'm not too concerned about being able to run multiple showers or anything. We kinda figure it will be similar to now, we can't run both showers and the kitchen sink with our current water heater. So we can still be smart about it and i think it will be fine. My main concern is with the installation, i have heard from a couple people i know that the paid 2-3 times the cost of their tankless for the installation. Thats why the Rheem caught my eye with their 'standard PVC, easy installation'. The unit would go in the garage. In order to vent it to an exterior wall, the vent would have to go up about 4 feet and then horizontal for about 12 ft. Thanks guy that ran the line seemed to think we had the gas flow to add a tankless Its a calculation, and you cant guess... If the unit wants 199,000 btu and your only supplying it with 100,000 btu you will have issues with the unit and most likely damage it. You should be able to run both showers with your water heater.. Whats the issue? Its electric so you may have something not working. If you insist on tankless I would look at the Noritz. I have installed many of them and feel they have the best warranty. Tankless Hot Water Heater | Tankless Water Heaters Gas | On Demand Hot Water Heaters Of course just remember I told you so if your not happy with the results or savings. ( Temp fluctuations, cold water sandwiching...etc.) I would lean more towards a power vent HWH. I have installed many of these and feel you will be happier. This is the higher end power vent. They make a more standard one also but the link is down. http://www.hotwater.com/lit/brochures/AOSRG71000.pdf http://www.hotwater.com/lit/brochures/AOSRG01000.pdf Tankless has its place if you have 1 bath or many children that are of school age and everyone showers in the morning. Mike NJ I may have worded that poorly, I believe he did test the gas line to see if a it had the capacity to work and didn't just assume it would. I haven't heard of the power vent water heaters before you metioned them. I'm guessing anything gas is going to be more efficient than our current electric unit, but is a power vent going to be as efficient as a tankless? Is Vertex the best power vent? After a quick google search i saw rheem and ge and some others also make a power vent. And thanks for all of your help I'm not personally sold on tankless units yet but a few customers of mine are happy with one. Venting is what gets extremely pricey with some units. We install a brand called Navien that vents with solid core pvc. People seem to be pretty happy with it. They are about 200000 btu and require a 3/4 gas line. Tankless units are more prone to hard water problems and scale build up I think. They need to be cleaned regularly and maintained.
Related Posts:
Tankless water heater and btus
Tankless Water Heater and BTUsHello, I would like to replace my heated watertank with a tankless heater. The system is gas. I am trying to figure out how much/min BTUs the new system should have....
Titan tankless water heater installation help [Merged threads]
Titan Tankless Water Heater Installation help! [Merged threads]Let me start by saying I am a novice with this installation and I appreciate any help. I purchased a Titan N-160 from TitanTankless.c...
Tankless water heater replacement
Tankless Water Heater ReplacementI had a 40 gallon gas water heater to heat 4 sinks in a small office building. It was leaking, so I replaced it with a good deal Thermar Gas Tankless Water Heater....
Venting a water heater
Venting a water heaterThis past Sat. evening our hot water tank (Propane) stopped heating water. It's 12 years old and has been serviced once before so I opted to just replace it. (We just bought...
Rinnai tankless water heater problem
Rinnai tankless water heater problemMoved into a brand new house last January equiped with a natural gas supplied tankless water heater (Rinnai model) which also supplies the radiant heating throu...
I have a Champoin 4800DD unit and one of the axle bearings is shot. I have the new bearings and am ready to go, but don't know if it's easier to pull the belt wheel or leave the belt wheel on and pull out the whole axle. Of course, to do that I would need to loosen the squirrell cage clamps to pull the axle out, but have no clue which would be easier. The axle looks pretty rusty, and I hesitate to try to loosen it. Removing the belt wheel would seem easier, but it feels welded on.... there is a bolt that looks like the retainer mechanism, and I've removed it but... there she sits. Any advice? You sure its just the one bearing. Pull the belt pulley off. If you have some fine wet sand paper use it to clean the shaft so the pulley will come off then clean the shaft behind it so the bearing will slide out.If the shaft is bad get a new one and put it in now. Take the set screw out of the pulley . Turn the pulley with the hole up put WD 40 in the hole and let set for a time.Tap light on the pulley now and then . ED Thanks, ED. I did just that - it's out there soaking in WD 40 as I type and I'll have another go at it this evening. I think your advice to replace the whole shaft is good - the retaining ring at the other end is frozen on as well, so - if I can get it out at all, I'm going to replace it. I'll let you know if I manage it! I did end up replacing the axle, ED. The danged thing was so rusty that the squirrel cage would not move along it to allow it to be pulled out, so I had to cut it out. After barking almost all my knuckles, I finally managed to extract it. It's funny, isn't it, that something that takes hours to get apart goes back together again in 20 minutes. But it's running sweetly now. Hey Fricka, You will need to apply some anti seize compond on the shaft and other parts so when the next time you can take it apart easier. I would also apply a new coat each year when you do the tune up. I've used 3 jaw gear type pullers to get the pulleys off.
Related Posts:
Swamp cooler belt replacement merged threads
Swamp Cooler Belt Replacement (Merged Threads)I only see 7 postings on this site. I want to do some research on change a V belt on the cooler motor. Is it possible to bring up past postings to loo...
Swamp cooler motor stops and just buzzes
Swamp cooler motor stops and just buzzesOK, this issue started last summer...the swamp cooler is running, either HI or LO speed (two speed 1/2 HP motor), then just slows down, stops and buzzes. Th...
Window swamp cooler thermostat
Window Swamp Cooler ThermostatI have an Adobe Air 1/2HP window swamp cooler that i would like to have a thermostat control. Right now it just has two switches one for the pump and another to contr...
Ruptured water line to swamp cooler
Ruptured water line to swamp cooler?Well the joys of buying a house. Apparently this house was not winterized correctly from top to bottom. Current problem is the swamp cooler. I've never had one...
Replacing rooftop swamp cooler
Replacing Rooftop Swamp CoolerMy central swamp cooler is about 30 years old and beginning to rust out. It also is noisy. I have some questions about what model to go with: Replace with similar c...
Greetings, I searched the archives but didn't find this problem. My washer (Model#110.27812690) suddenly didn't spin the last load. I moved the cycle selector though diff parts of several cycles, and the motor is humming, but the barrel won't move. Is this the motor coupler, or something else. Should I buy parts from Sears, or is there a better source. I don't like their customer service. Thanks in advance! If the washer won't spin or agitate its a good chance the coupler is broke. If the lid switch is bad your washer won't spin, but the motor also won't hum. So I doubt the lid switch. Could also be something in the pump stalling the motor. More than likely the coupler bad. Common problem on these washers. Coupler part # 285852. Sears or do an online search for appliance parts. Everyone carries them. Dave Hi - I was looking for the same answer... and it was the COUPLER! THANKS! A possible $200 repair or new washer turned out to be a $23 part ($10 if from Sears) with a few nasty words from hubby who had a hard time getting the cover back on! GREAT INFO! Thanks! Thanks for your advice. I have a Kenmore washer with a similar problem, however, the drum will spin sometimes if I turn the agitator a bit and then re-start. Should I still suspect the coupler? Originally Posted by dave6466 If the washer won't spin or agitate its a good chance the coupler is broke. If the lid switch is bad your washer won't spin, but the motor also won't hum. So I doubt the lid switch. Could also be something in the pump stalling the motor. More than likely the coupler bad. Common problem on these washers. Coupler part # 285852. Sears or do an online search for appliance parts. Everyone carries them. Dave Thanks everyone! I called a rservic repair person and they concurred on the coupler, and came and replaced it the same day for $100. A little steep for a $25 part, but hey I didn't scrape any knuckles, and laundry was underway that day! Next time, maybe I'll try the repair myslef since I watched the guy repairing it. Originally Posted by adanek Thanks for your advice. I have a Kenmore washer with a similar problem, however, the drum will spin sometimes if I turn the agitator a bit and then re-start. Should I still suspect the coupler? Yes. Good chance the coupler is broke but still able to spin the drum at certain spots. Dave Hubby ended up having to refix the washer last night after a 1/2 successful test run. He thinks he put the coupler on wrong and it slipped out of place. Working great now... $100 isn't bad... at least you knew what might be wrong and were prepared. It is a horrible feeling to be at the mercy of a repair person who may be taking you for a RIDE. Hubby had a heck of a time getting the washer put back together the first time, I think our 6 year old learned dome new words... so the axtra $75 may have been worth not having to hassle with that. It was going to cost us $60 - $80 just to have someone come look at ours. I love this forum! Now I am hoping hubby will take a stab at the dishwasher that quit last week (we had to replace the TV the week before, it has been a BAD month!) We were having an issue with our washer, a small leak that I though was stemming from the spout that delivers the water into the wash basin. I took off the back and found that I was right, but I cannot get the part today. I put the washer back together but during my test run the water kept filling and then overran the washer....and it was still filling.... I opened up the washer again and found that the tube that ran from the water level selector to the bottom of the was disconnected. I reconnected it but I get the same results. One other thing, when I move the wash knob it dosent seem to want to procede through the wash cycle on its own now... Not sure what happened, but I could really use some help. Thanks, Matt Make sure the tubing is still connected at switch tub. Run the washer on the spin cycle for a few minutes to remove any water that may have gotten into tube try the wash cycle again. The timer won't advance untill the fill switch is satisfied at the selected water level. Dave We had a spin problem and it was the motor coupler. I replaced that and now having a problem with the water fill, it doesn't stop. Put it on small load and it keeps filling. I don't think it washes either. But it does spin! What did I do to it? Any help? Thanks, Jack H. Sounds like you might have knocked off the plastic tubing that goes up to the fill switch when you replaced coupler. Look around the outside of tub with the shell off towards bottom of tub. You should see where the tube pushes onto a fitting mounted to tub. The fill switch senses the water level shuts off water allows timer to advance to the wash cycle. Thank you Dave, it was the tube going to the fill switch. You saved the weekend for me. Thanks again, Jack H. My washing machine just stopped...agitator stuck and couldn't turn it manually. Followed advice and went to Sears for a new $15 Coupler. Replaced it and washer works great again! This site is a life saver! Thank you! P.S. I recommend calling Sears Hardware first to ask which location sells the part. how do i get to this coupler that seems to cause all of the problems? Here is a link and some instructions Here is a link to what I think your problem is Whirpool Drive-Coupling Replacement The only thing I do different is not to take cabinet off, I pull the machine out from wall far enough to lean it back on hoses(far enough to lean back by it's self) and work under machine. Water pump can stay on hoses and push to the left and fold hoses to stay out of way. when you reinstall motor be sure to take extra care on the way the pins line up to the holes in the rubber piece. Lots of practice takes me about 15 minutes but know every tool I will need. Give about a hour for job. The washer makes a grinding noise, and wont spin. Pulled and check coupler, it looks ok. Motor runs, no obstructions around agitater. It will Fill/Drain FYI, I'm no pro, but with this info I'm thinking clutch or trans. How should I go about testing or determining which. Did you take out the coupler? the newer couplers crack and look ok before you remove them. see if the clutch disk spins on the spin cycle. if not its the coupler or the gearcase. if so its the clutch,basket drive or drive block or something stuck between the basket and the tub Hi, I'm having the same problem here and try to fix it myself. Anyone can suggest me where to get the how-to text/video? Thank you in advance. ^model#? is the motor turning? is the clutch spinning(tip back and look underneath)? remove agitator and check for worn out drive block Similar problem on my 80 series kenmore washer (mod# 11024812200) - it will fill and agitate, but it won't spin or drain. lid switch seems okay. it tries to engage but the drum won't turn. It tries, kinda makes a chunk noise, the agitator moves about an inch and then stops. the motor hums. Does that sound like the motor coupler or something else? Thanks! is the clutch spinning(tip back and look underneath)? remove agitator and check for worn out drive block Take the clips off the water pump and pull it off shaft and try to spin it now. May have something in water pump allowing motor to turn one way. thanks for the tips. the clutch wasn't running, there was just a humming. I decided to recheck everything, so I started it again to see if the timer was actually working. it was, and this time when I let it go thru, it drained and the drum spun just fine. I pulled all kinds of material out of the tub where it drains, so I think some worn fabric pulled apart and the pieces got wrapped under the agitator. of course, my tub is now clogged...d'oh! Once it drains, I will retest with a small load of laundry and see what happens. Thanks for you help! I to have a kenmore series 80 with prob. It will fill with water and start agitateing, then stop. If you wait long enough(4-5 hours) it start again and runs through the cycle. It takes 8 hours to do 1 load. When it's stopped I can't get to do anything, turn all the knobs and nothing. Any Idea's? Steve I just pulled the motor apart and the coupler looks good, could the thermal overload be bad? What would happen if I just jumper that out? I would'nt jump the thermal protection. Its there for a reason. Sounds like bad motor bearings. The longer it runs, the more the motor seizes up trips off. Takes a long time to cool off before it comes back on. To be sure its the motor you can take it off tranny pump sit it on the floor. Put machine on spin cycle let it run. I bet after a few minutes it overheats trips off. Dave Help! first off, what a great web site and was very helpful in determining our spin problem on our Kenmore model 25842400, 80 series. After reading all questions and answers we determined that the problem was in the motor coupler, ordered, installed and now another problem. Hubby, never having had a washer apart, took it completely apart, shaft removed, put back together with new coupler, did a test in the garage, tub spins, all looks and sounds good. Bring it into the house, load in a small amount of laundry, wait.. the spin mode now makes an awful loud clangy noise and no spin. Back out to the garage, apart, back together, test, good to go. Back in house, load, same thing, seems like the spin mode wants to catch but doesn't stay going, noise is still very much there. Back out to garage, checked gear box this time, says all looks ok. Put back together, test, it spins, test again, it doesn't spin. Besides both being confused we are very frustrated. I'm sure the coupler was the original problem because as soon as it was together the first time it went to spin right away on the test, but now we either have another problem or something isn't put back together correctly. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. ^possible bad gearcase. turn it to spin and see if the clutch disc is spinning and report back well, in reference to our Kenmore model #25842400 spin problem, we were instructed to test the gearcase to see if the clutch was spinning. With the machine tipped on its back and all intact, my husband plugged it in and he watched the mechanisms while I put it in spin mode. He says that from what we can see the motor is working and the gearcase is working up to the clutch. The clutch spins but the tub does not. It also makes a loud grinding, whinning noise. Any suggestions is much appreciated. Take out the tub I think you some how got the shaft that drive the basket out of place and it is not engaging the drive block. If that is the case you will need a new drive block and possibly a new basket drive. here is a link to the parts KENMORE | Model #11025842400 | AUTOMATIC WASHER | BRAKE, CLUTCH, GEARCASE, MOTOR AND PUMP PARTS | SearsPartsDirect.com #1 is basket drive KENMORE | Model #11025842400 | AUTOMATIC WASHER | AGITATOR, BASKET AND TUB PARTS | SearsPartsDirect.com # 15 is drive block remove the agitator and inspect the drive block. make sure the 2 tabs from the basket drive are seated into the block Originally Posted by landers96 I to have a kenmore series 80 with prob. It will fill with water and start agitateing, then stop. If you wait long enough(4-5 hours) it start again and runs through the cycle. It takes 8 hours to do 1 load. When it's stopped I can't get to do anything, turn all the knobs and nothing. Any Idea's? Steve Hi, was there a solution to this problem? I am having the EXACT same issue and am in need of help! Read back a few reply's and check what has been suggested, Tell us what you have checked so we can help. Originally Posted by pugsl Here is a link and some instructions Here is a link to what I think your problem is Whirpool Drive-Coupling Replacement The only thing I do different is not to take cabinet off, I pull the machine out from wall far enough to lean it back on hoses(far enough to lean back by it's self) and work under machine. Water pump can stay on hoses and push to the left and fold hoses to stay out of way. when you reinstall motor be sure to take extra care on the way the pins line up to the holes in the rubber piece. Lots of practice takes me about 15 minutes but know every tool I will need. Give about a hour for job. I used this video, which was great for replacing the coupler. The new coupler is in but we still have an issue where the drum will spin if the load is light (i.e. just water or only a few clothes) but won't spin with a normal load. When the machine gets to the spin cycle with a normal load, it'll make a grinding noise, but the drum won't spin. Does that mean that the clutch is bad? If so, how would I confirm this? Hi Guys, I own a Kennmore 80 series Washer as well. My Machine Stopped working after it filled itself with water. There is no noise what so ever to at least indicate that machine is repairable. What should I do? Please help! Thanks ^check the lid switch. post model# if you need more help I have a Kenmore 80 series washer. All of a sudden it is making a whinning sound and the clothes keep getting tangled around the agitator. I thought that maybe it was the size of the loads but it does the same thing with small loads too. Any suggestions besides buy a new washer? Take cabinet off, uncilp water pump and pull off shaft(leave hoses attached) jump lid switch and put washer into spin. if no whine than you need a water pump, Post model # will help My Kenmore 80 series washer will not drain or spin. I took the cover off, took the pump off, and took the motor out and put it on the floor. The pump spins ok. The coupler seems intact. I tried to turn the motor on by putting the dial on the spin cycle and starting it....the motor hums loud, tries to spin slowly sometimes; hums, doesn't spin at all; hums, starts spinning slowly and then something inside the motor catches and it spins normally. The motor gets very hot during the times that it fails to spin normally...Do I need a new motor? Could this be a problem with the timer/electronics? TIA
Related Posts:
Whirlpool imperial series washer spin problem
Whirlpool Imperial series washer spin problemI have aquired a whirlpool imperial series washer model LSN1000JQ1. It fills washes drains no problem but when it goes into spin it jerks a few times l...
Whirlpool ultimate care iiwont drain or spin
whirlpool ultimate care II-won't drain or spinNeed help fast! My whirlpool ultimate care II washer is 2 years old. has worked good up until tonight. it filled, agitated, but won't drain or spin. W...
Whirlpool heavy duty washer wont spin in rinse cycle
Whirlpool heavy duty washer won't spin in rinse cycleMy Whirlpool heavy duty washing machine, Model LSR7233BW0, does not spin during the rinse cycle when doing loads in the regular and permanent p...
Trane xe78 pressure switch problem
Trane XE78 pressure switch problemThe furnace has been running fine recently, but only used occasionally due to fluctuating weather. Today I turned it on and it did not start to blow hot air as us...
Whirlpool calypso washer need help cleaning out pump
Whirlpool Calypso Washer- Need help cleaning out pump.I have a Whirlpool Calypso washing machine that has (what I believe is) a clogged pump. Can anyone tell me step by step get at the pump to cle...
Hello, I am attempting to replace my shallow well jet pump for my house water supply. Here is what I started with. 1/2 horsepower old old pump with a 14 gallon or so pressure tank. Pump setting with old gage appeared to be 20-40. 26' deep well with casing...1 1/4 galvanized pump down into well. At ground level transitioned to 3/4 copper and zig zagged approximately 6 feet to pump with the copper. Here is what I'm trying to put in. I have installed 1 1/4 galvanized from ground level to pump. Teel 4P036A 1 1/2 horse power pump (Dayton number 4TB20). I have installed the shallow well ejector kit part number 2P429 with venturi, nozzle, and back flow to pump. New 42 gallon pressure tank air set to 28 pounds. New 30-50 pressure switch. New pressure gage. Here is the problem...I can only get up to 30 pounds of pressure on the gage no matter how long pump runs. I have a hose drain right by the pressure tank and can run water out of it all day long with the pump running at about 22 pounds of pressure. If I shut that off I will build to about 30 pounds of pressure. In order to get the pump to temporary function I have lowered both the cut in pressure and cut out pressure so pump will turn off. I have check for suction leaks with shaving cream at joints and all appears fine. The Teel pump is a used pump that was in service and operating fine. It is around 3 years old as far as I know. However, prior to me installing the pump it sat for 3-4 months on my porch. The only things I can think of are: Seal between motor and pump body dried up while sitting and pump is sucking air at that location. Possibly don't have enough water in the well to support this large of pressure tank and water draw? Are there any other possibilities? If not, is there some way to check for the above? Thank you in advance...hopefully someone has some ideas so I can get my water up and running to the house! Brad That 1.5 horsepower pump is going to pump alot more water than that old 1/2 hp pump did. Can the well support it? If the seal was dried out, and allowed the pump to suck air, it would also leak water. If there's no water leak, I doubt the seal is bad. Recheck all the connections on the suction line. It doesn't take but a very small leak to keep a pump from properly priming. Ron
Related Posts:
Well pump problems
Well pump problemsHey Old Guy where you at? Thought I would pick you brain abit. I went to look at a friends electrical problem and since I was able to correct that he decided to see what I could...
Shallow well pump installation
Shallow Well Pump (Installation)I've been browsing through alot of these threads,and still have quite e few questions about installing a pump for my camp.The pump is a 1/2 horse Sears shallow well...
Well pump problem foot valve or blader tank
Well pump problem... foot valve or blader tank?I've been reading old posts here for the last couple of weeks, and I think you all ahve helped me solve my problem. Before I go spend a couple hundre...
Waterpowered sump pump
Water-Powered Sump PumpWith the storms we had this past weekend, we lost power for about 7 hours and I had to manually empty the sump pit with buckets. I'm looking for a backup solution and I was...
Well pump and low pressure when multiple faucets are on
Well Pump and Low Pressure when multiple faucets are on.I have been noticing that my water pressure from the well is dropping of when there is more than one thing demanding water. I seemed to noti...
Never had a problem before. Now it won't run (it starts and dies). Per instructions: (Ryobi 890r 4-cycle gas trimmer/bushcutter) Switch on Trigger pulled for full throttle Move choke to 'full choke' position Press primer bulb several times slowly Pull starter rope briskly (engine catches monentarily) Move choke to the partial choke position Here's the problem. As soon as I move the choke to the partial choke position, the engine races for a second and then dies. It appears to burn the little fuel that was left and stops. When priming, fuel can be seen moving up through the intake tube and back out the return tube. Any thoughts on what parts I should replace? Thanks! Jerry How many times do you press the primer bulb and do you press it again after it fires when you are still trying to start it? I have a 4-cycle Ryobi and when it's cold, I prime it about 3-4 times and that's all...even if it wont start. Full choke pull the starter until it pops, then turn the choke about 1/2 then try it again. Try it in the idle position as well as full throttle.....honestly I don't use full throttle on the 4-strokes, just my older 2-stroke. If you keep flooding the motor you are going to fuel foul the plug...I would have a few extra just to have on hand. Once my 4-stroke trimmer fires I find a happy idle with the choke lever with the throttle in the idle position, once you do this a few times you will know right where to put it. Make sure you have fresh gas and a fresh plug.......and don't mix oil with the gas Sounds to me like the carburetor needs to be cleaned out.
Related Posts:
Weed eater ryobi gas
Weed Eater - Ryobi - GasThe weed eater starts fine in choke - it takes a bit to warm up, but then it is fine. I put the choke to half throttle and it runs fine. If I squeeze the trigger, ever so s...
Ryobi 31cc weed trimmer wont start
Ryobi 31CC weed trimmer wont startPLEASE HELP! I borrowed a weed trimmer from a neighbor and the fuel lines cracked and broke and i had to replace them. In the difficult task and numerous tries wi...
Ryobi string trimmer wont start
Ryobi string trimmer wont startI have a Ryobi string trimmer in the shop that just wont start. It is a CS30 Model 30000. I have spark at the wire end and also the plug is firing. I removed the a/f...
Ryobi trimmer 725r 31cc 17 wont stay running
Ryobi trimmer 725R 31CC 17 won't stay runningThis trimmer will start fine in choke or half-choke and will stay running only in half-choke. It will not start in RUN or if I start it in half-choke a...
Ryobi cs30 model ry30020a will not rev up
Ryobi CS30 Model RY30020A will not rev upI have a Ryobi CS30; model RY30020A that I purchased about 2 1/2 years ago. I have been having a problem with it this season. It starts with no problem at...
Replacing the main 200 amp circuit breaker (not upgrading service)
Hello. This note is about our lakefront cottage (summer home). I added a 20A breaker in an empty slot in my circuit breaker. I shut off the main 200 amp breaker as a precaution before adding the new 20A breaker. Everything went well, and all worked when completed. Then a few days later, the symptoms were that some of the outlets were no longer working (nothing to do with the circuit I added). We found that by pushing the main 200 amp breaker farther (open), this fixed the issue and the outlets and lights that suddently stopped working, were now working again. All was fine for another week, then the same symptoms appeared... half the outlets were no longer working and by jimmying the main 200 amp breaker a little, all the other outlets resumed working. None of the breakers tripped during any of these. I am guessing that I need to replace the main 200 amp circuit breaker as it appears something does not stay constantly ON, even though the breaker is slid all the way open. I imagine we had not switched this main circuit breaker OFF for 20 years. I have a few questions: 1) Does replacing the 200 amp main breaker sound like the correct action? 2) Does this main breaker replace the same way the 15A and 20A breakers are replaced? 3) Do I need to contact the power company to turn power off to my property before doing so? 4) Is this something that a homeowner that is well versed at wiring and adding 20A and 15A circuits to electrical panels should be able to do? Thanks, Russ Originally Posted by wennerrm Does replacing the 200 amp main breaker sound like the correct action? Maybe, it could also be loose bolts or lugs on the main breaker, on the incoming feeder wires or where the breaker bolts to the panel buses. 2) Does this main breaker replace the same way the 15A and 20A breakers are replaced? Not exactly, the main is usually bolted in and connects directly to the incoming live feeder wires. The lugs will have a torque specification that is important to follow. If you have aluminum feeder wires you will also need to clean the wires and apply no-ox compound before termination on the new main breaker. 3) Do I need to contact the power company to turn power off to my property before doing so? If you do the repair yourself, you will need the power company to come out and disconnect power. 4) Is this something that a homeowner that is well versed at wiring and adding 20A and 15A circuits to electrical panels should be able to do? Yes I think so as long as you have the power company out do the live disconnection. It would be very hazardous to do that part or to pull the meter yourself. Something you should be careful to look for though is any heat damage that may have occurred around the main breaker. If it was a loose connection it can cause arcing which may have damaged the panel. If you find that situation under the main breaker it would be good to get an electrician involved to see about replacing the entire panel. Breakers are supposed to be exercised once in a while but mains almost never get that for obvious reasons. And that is common for a 20 year old one that has decided to fail. They take a lot of abuse especially if you have electric heat. One thing to consider is the cost and availablity of a 200 amp main for your panel as well. Some are no longer available, some can be replaced with another brand as breaker companies have been buying each other out, going out of business etc. and even the big boys like GE, SQD, Siemans etc. change their designs every few years anymore. Twenty years is not bad for a main but you can't touch it without the power company removing your meter. here where I live we can cut the seal, repair it and the local utilty will replace the seal. They would prefer a phone call but sometimes that just isn't and option at midnight. To add, the cost of the main or availablity (or lack of)could force you to replace the panel as well. Good luck. If you need any help with ID on that main send a pic. I have been a buyer at an electrical distributor for 30 years and can identify most breakers if I can see them. Who is the manufacturer of the panel? Is there a label on the main breaker that gives the Type, it's usually on a label attached to the breaker. As has been stated, many main breaker Types have been discontinued and are no longer available, but can be replaced with a different Type. Sometimes you can get used main breakers marketed as Reconditioned as well. I hate to use anything used in the way of a breaker, but sometimes it's far less than the cost to replace the panel. Yes, a picture would also be helpful. Unfortunately I am 300 miles away from the cottage. I know from a picture I had taken a month ago of a few of the breakers (for a different reason), that the panel manufacturer is Challenger, and although I have a picture of some of the breakers, I do not have a picture of the main breaker. I have a company up there putting in a heater for us this week, so he has agreed to replace the 200 A main circuit breaker for us. IIRC Challenger is either out of business or has been absorbed into another company. You may have trouble finding the correct breaker. Yes, Challenger was bought by Eaton and rolled into the Cutler-Hammer family. The old Challenger loadcenter is the basis for today's C-H BR series loadcenter and the old Challenger panelboard is basically the only panelboard Cutler-Hammer sells today, but with the C-H logo of course. I think there is a good possibility a new main breaker can be found for your Challenger loadcenter, if not a used one is surely available.
Related Posts:
Zinsco circuit breaker removal
Zinsco Circuit Breaker RemovalI bought a replacement breaker for a Zinsco panel. I have never removed a Zinsco breaker before. Is there a special tool or procedure? The breaker is quite old and br...
Replacing pushmatic breaker
Replacing Pushmatic BreakerI have a house built in 1961 using Bulldog panel with puchmatic breakers. The breakers are old and sometimes take me 4, 5 pushes to reset. I asked an electrician to repl...
Surge suppressor circuit breaker
Surge Suppressor Circuit BreakerHello all, What are your thoughts on surge suppressor circuit breakers? Do they work well? How does a whole panel get surge protection if a couple of branch circuit...
Whole house surge protector breaker box question
Whole house surge protector breaker box questionInstalling a Leviton 51110 whole house surge protector from Home Depot. Four leads - 2 black, a green and a white. Blacks go to two adjacent 20 amp...
Replacing sewer pipe main line
Replacing Sewer Pipe Main LineI haven't seen any threads specifically on replacing the main line so... I own an older home (1914) and the sewer line from the house to the city's main line is break...
Replacing carpet with hardwood floor - suggestions, pointers please
Hi, We have been wanting to replace the carpet in the family room and put in wooden floor. The family room is on 1st floor and under the carpet, it seems to have some sort of tile. Under the floor, there is crawl space and I can see wooden joists. Here is a picture of the flooring under carpet. What is my best option to replace the carpet? In future, I may want to add radiant heating to the room with under the floor heating pipes. (not sure I can take all that up in this remod) For a nail down floor, do I need to remove the tiles or can I add plywood subfloor on top of the tile? (This room is 3 inches lower than rest of the house, so bringing the floor up by another inch wouldnt matter) If gluing or floating floor are only options without removing the tile .. Is there any reason to not do those? I am in the beginning phase of this project. So I am not tied to any firm idea yet. I want to know possible options and then research more. Thanks for looking and your help Adding another layer for subflooring will give a substantially more solid floor feel, while in some instances it is not necessary. Look around the room. What will be affected by adding another 3/4. Doorways, closet openings, wall molding. If you can live with the rise in the floor it may not be a bad idea. I just wanted you to know about the boogers that come along with raising a floor. Not sure what type tile you have. Is it linoleum, ceramic (doubtful), VCT. Just need to know that. yeah .. didn't think of other problems with the raising the floor. There are two doors, one to the garage and one to the deck .. so I think I dont want to go down that path. How do I figure out what kind of tile I have? (could it be stone). Is black and rectangular and quite firmly set) Thanks Chandler If you are going to nail down, whatever that tile is needs to come out. Then check back with us and we will discuss subfloor thickness, joist size and spacing etc. A 3/8 to 1/2 engineered hardwood floor could go over the top of the existing floor provided it is sound and in good repair. People carpet over things for strange reasons. I would take a good look at the whole floor before finalizing just in case there are surprises. I would want to see more of the tile first to see if it ends up being a workable surface. Probably not but you never know.... hopefully no buried bodies underneath Because this is a functioning family room, I am planning to make a decision based on what I find in that corner. After I rip out the carpet, I would be expected to finish my job in a week or two. So I am thinking, I will try to chip away one of those corner tiles/stones and that may yield more information about what material it is If you need to chip, you've probably answered most of the questions. If you have floor registers let us know how thick the subfloor, what it is made of, and how many layers. If no floor registers, drill a 3/8 hole in the subfloor, take a nail with a head on it, stick it into the hole. Put it down far enough to clear the thickness and pull back up and catch the head on the underside of the subfloor. Pinch the nail at the top floor level, pull out of the hole and measure. Plan on removing if you want any kind of nail down flooring. no registers in the floor. (Those are the air vents right). I tried to pull out the tile from one end using a pry bar. It chipped. Does that look like slate? The nail method is to figure out the thickness of the whole subfloor? or just the thickness of the tile? So to make it clear for me, I drill untill I see the hole from the basement/crawl space under the room? Thanks .. Is what you chipped out brittle? Is it VCT or Vinyl? Anyway, from the piece in your photo, looks like the floor will have to come out for nail down. Yes, drill a whole in the floor until it breaks through to the basement. Then use a nail to go into the hole, and try to figure out how thick your subfloor is. I agree with czizzi, it looks like vct, definitely not slate. It has to come up for hardwoods. Before it was a family room, this was a breezeway between main house and garage and had those tiles. When the earlier owners converted it into a room, they put carpet on it. So would VCT be used in a breezeway (unheated room with screens on both sides). I am trying to look for VCT tile pictures to see if this matches with those. The broken pieces are not brittle. (I let them drop on garage floor from about 6ft and they did not further break, I cannot easily break the chips with fingers. I will do the hole/nail method tomorrow and see what I find out. How do I loosen the grout/mortar/glue whatever is holding those tiles? Best way to get the tile up is using a slammer scraper. As for the glue, it may need sanding. Any idea when the tile was laid? If after say 1977, then the use of asbestos was not an issue. Prior to then, you may need help. Attachment 6287 VCT - vinyl composite tile is most likely the floor that you will see in your local supermarket. Yours may be a variation of this or a luxury vinyl tile.
Related Posts:
Marble threshold between hardwood and ceramic
Marble threshold between hardwood and ceramic?Hi... Thanks to my young son of the errant aim , I have to replace the hardwood floor in our powder room. My plan is to replace with 12x12 ceramic ti...
Orbital floor buffer for just cleaning a laminateengineered hardwood floor
Orbital floor buffer for just cleaning a laminate/engineered hardwood floor?I have found numerous articles regarding refinishing hardwood floors using sand paper. We rent an apartment, and I don't...
Please tell me the best way to waterproof my crawlspace
please tell me the best way to waterproof my crawlspaceit's cemented and about 3ft high. When you sit upright your head is between the joists, otherwise you are crawling. I have hot water baseboar...
Permanently sealing a basement floor drain
Permanently sealing a basement floor drainOk here's the situation. It's going to be a bit of a book, sorry.. My basement (mancave) is mostly finished, with a main living room, 3/4 bathroom, and 'b...
Lowering basement floor
lowering basement floormy concrete basement floor is about 6'6 below the 1st floor joists. we'd like to finish the basement but realize we'll need to lower the floor to meet code and make the spac...
Hello, I am a Newbie here. I have searched the archives for my answers before actually posting them because I couldn't find what I needed to know. I'm working on a self-contained AC/heat pump unit with an inside fan motor. It's a GE ECM 5SME39HX L015 (not sure what the L number is either) It has the symptoms of a bad module on the back of the motor. Slow, erratic starting, oscillating. All of the mechanicals and freon on the unit have been checked and are good. The module or a complete motor is very expensive. I would like to replace the motor with a regular capacitor start/run type of motor. I know from the elect drawings I'll need a contactor for the 230v (ECM motor 'hot' all the time) with the 24v speed control powering the coil of the contactor instead. There are 2 speed wires coming from the control board and one from the t'stat (N/C). Of the two from the board, one speed (High) comes from the defrost cycle part. and the other must be the run speed (Med.) NOW my question. I can't tell what fan speeds these two connections are so I can get an idea on what RPM range to look for in a single speed replacement motor. Thanks for any help or insight on this and leads for the regular motor I will need. Let me get this straight. You want to remove a two speed condenser fan motor and replace it with a single speed fan motor. You will not be using the defrost control board anymore ? or if you are how do you know it's working correctly ? I'm not sure I'd handle the repair like that. Anyway.....with that aside you'll need to get the fan motor part number and either look it up or have it looked up and find out what motor it would be subbed with. Then you could determine the speeds from the subbed motor. I ran your motor part number at Graingers. It comes up with 34 possible replacements. HVAC Motors - Motors - Grainger Industrial Supply For proper operation you should install the oem motor as it does run on certain speeds in different modes. It also is more energy efficient than a psc motor. Can you do what you are asking? Sure... you lose all the delays and such as the control board determines when the motor should run, but you can do it if you want. Thanks for the reply hvactechfw. The way I see it, from the schematic, only two modes/speeds are being used now. A high speed for the defrost cycle and medium speed for 'normal' running. Low speed comes from the T'stat that's not connected. Everything the control board does now will still be done with the use of, at the most, two contactors. One for the high speed 24vac 'signal' going to the coil of a contactor and another for the medium speed 24vac 'signal' going to the other coil. In other words the board will still control the 'regular' motor the same way it does the ECM, same delays and what ever else it does, but only with a one speed motor. The board will stay connected and not changed in anyway. As for energy efficient, the price of a ECMotor will be recovered in, what?, 10-15 years over the price of a psc motor? Yes, PJmax, I want to replace a ECMotor with something else. If it has to be a one speed psc motor, OK. The defrost board will still control the psc motor. Only instead of a direct connection to the ECMotor with a 24vac 'signal', I'll connect a contactor that has a 24vac coil and the board will control the contactor to run the 'regular' motor. I've got the ECM physical size and have 'binged' the size and have gotten many 'hits'. No problem finding one that 'fits'. I was just wondering if anybody here could give me an idea of a RPM to work with. Typically it is going to be 1075 rpm. What is the make and model number of the unit? It's a Coleman Model # PH?3001 1?21A ^ ^ Maybe a 2 5 The number is worn some. really need the model number to help more. A partial is not going to cut it.
Related Posts:
Replacement motor on dewalt table saw
Replacement motor on dewalt table sawI cooked the motor on a dewalt table saw. Its got a nice table, with the tracks at the top and bottom of the fence so it'd be worth fixing. I figure a motor wo...
Need help replacing hvac condensor fan motor 3 wire old to 4 wire new
Need help replacing HVAC condensor fan motor - 3 wire old to 4 wire newI'm replacing my old three wire condensor fan motor with a new four wire fan motor. The capacitor is a dual run cap with thre...
Motor for wholehouse fan
Motor for whole-house fanI have a Leslie-Locke whole-house fan. The motor isn't working and I need to replace it. The original motor is a DOW model D-XIN-PSC-6P2SP 1/3HP. I can find this reference...
Minn kota all terrain 40 trolling motor foot pedal issues buy it or run
Minn Kota All Terrain 40# trolling motor, foot pedal issues.... buy it or run?I have an oppertunity to buy what was described as a Minn Kota All Terrain 40# with foot control in excellent conditio...
Need ac blower motor electrical help
Need a/c blower motor electrical help!so I decided to replace my blower motor. I went to ac supply and bought a motor. I took the old one to match. I hooked up the yellow and blue wire just like t...
Back in December, I purchased a Quadra-Fire 4100i wood burning insert from a local dealer, and the dealer installed it. First the good: When it is loaded up and going it heats our whole house! With 2-3 logs per day, I can keep our house warm and I love the great radiant heat. It is also a very attractive unit. Now the bad, and the reason for this post: In a word, SMOKE. The flue in this unit is in the front, so every time the door is open smoke spills out. Sometimes sparks come out too, and I even have a few little burns on my brand new carpeting. When I spoke with the dealer he advised to burn small logs (1/4 chopped) only, which I do, and to open the door for a few minutes before adding logs (which I also do). This allows the unit to 'overheat' so as to get the chimney good and warm. The problem, though, is that even if I do these things, I cannot add fuel to the fire without a substantial smoke spill, enough that the house stinks. My wife is mad at me, and she believes it is making my kids sick. Before he installed the unit, the dealer indicated that we might need to put a liner in the chimney, and I was fine with that. During installation, though, he apparently determined that a liner is not necessary because he did not install one. Does anyone else have this problem with the 4100i? Does anyone have any suggestions? Help! A survey of households that use wood for heating showed that a large majority of users had experienced smoke spillage from their systems at least once. These episodes of smoke spillage can be reduced or eliminated through good system design and proper appliance operation. The spicy smell of wood smoke in the air on a cold winter evening can be pleasant. But the smell of wood smoke inside your home is a sign that the wood-burning system is not functioning properly. The smoke contains harmful air pollutants which can be irritating or even dangerous in high concentrations. Properly designed, installed and operated wood-burning systems do not spill smoke into the house. There are three main reasons why some wood-burning systems smoke: Bad system design: There are design characteristics that can make a wood-burning system more likely to spill smoke. Most of these characteristics result in low flue temperatures and low draft. For example, chimneys that run up the outside wall of the house can rob the heat from the exhaust and produce very little draft. Long flue pipe assemblies allow too much heat to be given up before the gases reach the chimney. Each elbow in the flue pipe assembly slows down the flow of gases and causes a small restriction to flow. When an assembly includes more than one elbow, the restriction can be enough to cause spillage. Appliances installed in basements have to work against the slight negative pressure normally found at low levels of the house. This negative pressure is caused by the tendency of the house air, which is warm relative to outside, to rise just as the hot gases in the chimney tend to rise. The stack effect caused by the buoyant warm air produces slightly negative pressure in the basement and slightly positive pressure at high levels of the house. Any one of these problem characteristics is not usually enough to cause smoke spillage on its own. However, when, for example, an outside chimney is combined with a long flue pipe assembly with several elbows and serves an appliance located in a basement, it is almost certain that smoking will be difficult to avoid. Extreme negative pressure in the house: Energy efficiency practices and new building code rules are making our houses more and more air tight. This makes the houses energy efficient, but also makes them more sensitive to Repressurization when air is exhausted from the house. Large, fan-forced exhaust ventilators, like down-draft-type kitchen stove exhausts, can cause extreme negative pressure in the house when they are operating. Because new houses are tightly sealed, there are few holes to allow replacement air to enter, and the house pressure becomes negative. This negative pressure works against chimney draft. In severe cases, the chimney draft is overcome by the negative pressure in the house and the appliance begins to spill smoke, especially when a fire is started or when it dies down to coals. To prevent this extreme Repressurization, one option is to link a large exhaust ventilator to a make-up air system which forces air into the home to replace the exhausted air. Contact your wood heat retailer or heating contractor for details. Improper appliance firing technique: When a wood fire is starved for air it smolders, producing a relatively cool, smoky fire. The temperatures throughout the system are low. During a smoldering fire, the chimney will not be receiving the hot gas it needs to produce strong draft. When the appliance loading door is opened, smoke will spill into the room. A smoldering fire is the single most common reason for smoke spillage. By using the suggestions on proper firing technique later in this booklet, you will be able to avoid these smoldering fires. The Cold-Backdraft-at-Standby Syndrome Many people who heat with wood have experienced this: they go to the basement to build a fire in the wood stove and when they open the door to put in the newspaper and kindling, they are greeted by a blast of cold air. When they light the kindling, the smoke comes into the room instead of up the chimney. This is the cold-backdraft-at-standby syndrome. Although this reverse flow can be caused by negative pressure in the house produced by the operation of a powerful exhaust ventilator like a kitchen exhaust, it is most often the combined effect of an outside chimney and a basement appliance location. Here's how it works. When there is no fire in the appliance, the air in the chimney cools to the outside temperature and the chimney produces no draft whatsoever. The very slight negative pressure in the basement caused by stack effect in the house is enough to pull the air down the chimney and out through any openings in the stove. Homeowners who have installations that are susceptible to the syndrome have found ways to get the fire started successfully. They will either open a basement window to relieve the negative pressure, or light some newspaper in the base of the chimney to get enough heat into the flue to produce some draft. However, these techniques only mask the problem, they do not correct it. If you never want to experience the cold-backdraft-at-standy syndrome, don't combine an outside chimney and basement stove location in your installation plans. Systems made up of an outside chimney serving an appliance on the main floor, or a stove located in the basement served by a chimney that runs up the inside of the house will not usually experience the syndrome. But, the combination of outside chimney and basement appliance will almost always suffer the cold-backdraft-at-standby syndrome. Hope this helps you. Good luck!
Related Posts:
Pellet stove installation question
Pellet Stove installation questionFor those of you that have installed or had pellet stoves installed, I have a question. First off, we have an old Aunt Sarah wood burning stove down in our family...
Replacing honeywell zone valve motor morphed into add on wood boiler
Replacing honeywell zone valve motor - morphed into add on wood boilerHi, my house have 6 zone and one of the Honeywell zone valve seem not to be working. I was suggested by the plumber that i ha...
Owens corning basement finishing system question
Owens Corning basement finishing system questionhas anyone used this in there basement and ifso was it expensive and how much was it and does it really work as they say?do you think its worth it?I...
Replaced contactor and ac still wont start
Replaced contactor, and A/C still won't startI started my A/C (Payne) for the first time this year, only to find that blower on the furnace(Bryant Plus 90) works, but the outside A/C unit will not...
Oil furnace cleaning
oil furnace cleaningHello, I have a Williams oil furnace I need to clean.I can't afford to pay to have it done ,it's all I can do to pay for the fuel.I would like to change the nozzle and filter o...
Poulan 2150 chainsaw. All fuel lines are in their original position. Primer bulb is marked tank and carb side. Tank side is for larger line and runs into tank and fuel filter. Carb side is smaller diameter line and runs to carbs lower fitting. Top carb nipple with small line runs to tank vent and sticks about 1 inch into tank top. Pushing on primer bulb PUSHES air OUT of fuel filter and sucks from carb side of bulb. Pulled out primer bulb and verified action separately. Definitely pulls from carb side and pushes into tank side which makes no sense to me at all. Going backwards like that would require source of gas to be from vent line in tank which isn't low enough into tank and would not be filtered. Pressing on the bulb pressurizes the fuel tank. The fuel sprays out when you open the tank!! I can't believe primer bulb is suddenly working backwards. The saw just stopped working in the field and has not run since. Has anyone else had experience with this? Hope you can help. Thanks. If all fuel lines are in original position then they were wrong. The line with the filter should go to the carb, then from carb to suck side of primer and return to tank from the blow side of primer. Correct...they are not in the original position, it can't work that way. The port marked tank goes to the return line in the tank, not the supply line with the filter on it. Thanks for the responses! How do we explain that the Primer bulb is marked carb and tank. The Tank side line is larger than the carb side line! Cannot get them mixed up. The larger line when the bulb is pressed is blowing air into the tank and pressurizing the fuel tank. Is it possible that something in the primer bulb assembly has broken and some how reversed its function? If someone out there has one of these I sure would appreciate someone looking at it to confirm how it works. I know what you guys are saying is right about it not working the way I found it when I disassembled the saw. Yet you need to believe what I am telling you about what I have found. The saw just suddenly stopped working in the field and nothing has been disturbed of changed from the original configuration except it just started working backwards!! (No human intervention) Thanks for your help. Of course I will purchase a new primer assembly and I will let you know what I find out. All comments, observations, experiences and advice is greatly appreciated. Well why would you want to filter the return fuel line over the inlet? The return line is not meant to pressurize the fuel tank and the primer system is only meant to purge the air bubbles from the lines and carb. Of course I can't explain what you found but I don't believe it is correct. The line marked tank blows air out when you press the primer. That's the way it's made and how it is supposed to function. It connects to the line with no filter going to the tank. The suction side of the primer goes to the carb. This is all regardless of how big the primer fittings are. That doesn't indicate what lines go to it although it would seem that way. I have some to look at in the shop, but I don't need to look at one to verify how it is connected...I work on them for a living. That's the whole of it....there is no other way for it to work. I don't think it suddenly started working backwards, I just think you have the wrong impression of how it works and should work. The check valve in the primer is put into place in one direction, and it can't come out and turn around. It's not physically possible for multiple reasons. The only way the primer can function backwards is if someone reverses the lines on it. I'm looking at the primer pump from my poulan 2150 chainsaw right now and the larger fitting marked 'tank' is connected to the blue tube going to the carburetor. The smaller fitting marked 'carb' is connected to the clear tube going to the tank. There is a much smaller tube (vent?) which is not sealed going from the carb directly into the tank. I have pulled this tube out of the tank and the chainsaw continues to run fine so it may be a pressure relief for the tank. It appears to me that the pump is marked backwards. Go figure! If it helps,, These are NOT really primer bulbs... They just got a bad name along the way!!! They are really a fuel system purge bulb.... They will never give a squirt of fuel into the carb as most people are used to seeing on lawnmowers...All they are designed to do is to pull the air from the carb when you release the button,, push it into the tank when you push the button.. I've seen lots of people get mixed up because of the term Primer bulb... Hope this makes it clear helps some ??? Roger If you have a line running from the carb to the tank and it runs fine with it removed, something is wrong. The return line should go from the primer to the tank. The supply line should go directly to the carb. It sounds like your return line is connected to the carb? With it removed from the tank, you risk fire/explosion. No matter what the primer says, the fitting that blows out when you push it goes directly to the tank. The fitting that sucks in when you release the primer goes directly to the carb. The line with the filter on it goes to the carb inlet. Every time, no matter how it is marked. My Poulan 2150 chainsaw's primer/air purge bulb is marked 'Primer' on the side of the chainsaw. It is labeled an air purge assembly on the parts diagram. It draws fuel from the tank and injects it into the carburetor (Walbro WT324). I know, because I can easily flood it with the primer and I've watched the fuel spray into the carb throat whenever I press the bulb. The primer valve also blocks fuel from draining out of the fuel line back into the tank. There is a third line, approx. 1/16 ID which runs from a small black plastic fitting on the carb into a small hole in the fuel tank. The saw will run with this removed but fuel will splash/dribble out of the hole in the tank into the area under the carb, so it needs to be there to plug the hole. All I know is what I have observed on my particular saw. OK, my bad, after fooling around with my 2150 a little more I seem to have found my error. The person who owned this saw before me had swapped the primer source tube (unfiltered) with the normal run fuel tube (filtered). What I thought was a vent tube was actually the primer fuel source tube. What I thought was the primer fuel source was actually the normal run fuel line. I would prime the saw and it would run but not very well or for very long. I also have replaced the primer bulb as it was getting cracks and leaking air, which I thought was the reason for reduced runtime. Hope this helps someone else. Oh yeah, as noted by others on this thread, the primer draws air and/or fuel out of the fuel chamber (behind the diaphragm) which then draws fresh (filtered) fuel into the fuel chamber from the fuel tank. The unfiltered line just returns any air and/or fuel back to the tank. If you have the tank/carb lines hooked up backwards on the primer assy then you will pump unfiltered fuel into the carb. This may get you started but it can't be good practice. Besides drawing dirt into the carb it can cause flooding and much cussing. Thanks to everyone for their input. I learn something new almost every day! But usually only after lots of head scratching. Originally Posted by fretless52 OK, my bad, after fooling around with my 2150 a little more I seem to have found my error. The person who owned this saw before me had swapped the primer source tube (unfiltered) with the normal run fuel tube (filtered). What I thought was a vent tube was actually the primer fuel source tube. What I thought was the primer fuel source was actually the normal run fuel line. I would prime the saw and it would run but not very well or for very long. I also have replaced the primer bulb as it was getting cracks and leaking air, which I thought was the reason for reduced runtime. Hope this helps someone else. I am having the same problem. After replacing fuel lines the primer bulb was pushing air into the tank. I know I connected the lines the same as the were before the fuel line replacement because I did them one at a time. After reading your post, I reversed the lines on the primer and now the fuel is priming but the saw will only start and run for a second. Any help on how you solved your problem would be apprcieated. Thanks... Hello sg107, Are the lines connected as I described above? Originally Posted by cheese Hello sg107, Are the lines connected as I described above? Hi Cheese, yes. After replacing all the fuel lines and filter I found that when the primer blulb was pushed that air was comming through the filter and the lines were not purging. I then reversed the lines and now fuel is pulled from the filter and tank and sent to the carb with the overflow returning to the tank. Problem is now that when I start the saw, it will only run for a few second and will not draw fuel on its own. Thanks for the help, It looks as if you have the lines attached correctly as the bulb is actually a suction cup that will bring fuel from the tank and push it into the carb. Too much will flood it. Now as far as running a few seconds and stopping, it sounds as if one of the diaphragms in the carb may have a pin hole in them. The carb is a simple 3 section unit with the diaphragms sandwiched between. Once it fires, you are pulling the choke off, right? It is only needed for the first fire, then maybe half choke to keep it running until warmed. I'll check back in. Originally Posted by chandler It looks as if you have the lines attached correctly as the bulb is actually a suction cup that will bring fuel from the tank and push it into the carb. Too much will flood it. Now as far as running a few seconds and stopping, it sounds as if one of the diaphragms in the carb may have a pin hole in them. The carb is a simple 3 section unit with the diaphragms sandwiched between. Once it fires, you are pulling the choke off, right? It is only needed for the first fire, then maybe half choke to keep it running until warmed. I'll check back in. Thanks Chandler, will only start with half choke after a few pushes on the prime. Acting like it is not drawing fuel in after running. Just cleaned the vent on the cap but have not tried to start it. I know this is not an image of your chainsaw ( This actually from a weedwacker) but you fuel system is hooked up the same way as this one. I work on these on a daily bases and have to train other employees on hook them up and contrary to what a lot of people think you are not pushing fuel to carb you are actually pulling it through. Fuel filter should be on small dia fuel line going to carb from carb fuel line should go to short end of primer bulb,from primer bulb(the longer stem) should go back to tank. I find it strange but not unbelievable that you got one hooked up wrong from factory I have seen this once or twice before.If it is still under warranty I'd recommend tacking it back because you can cause damage to carb by priming it a lot when fuel lines are hooked up backwards. Hope this helps Thanks Ghost, The way I have it connected now is that when the bulb is pushed fuel flows through the carb and out an overflow to the tank. When released, the suction pulls fuel from the tank through the filter. When pushed, fuel will squirt into the carb so I can see how this could be a problem. Is this correct? Also, still having the problem of only running for a second after start. Thanks, Originally Posted by sg107 Thanks Ghost, The way I have it connected now is that when the bulb is pushed fuel flows through the carb and out an overflow to the tank. When released, the suction pulls fuel from the tank through the filter. When pushed, fuel will squirt into the carb so I can see how this could be a problem. Is this correct? Thanks, No As has been stated, when you push the primer, fuel/air should be pushed directly into the tank When the primer is released it should, fill the bulb by drawing/sucking, fuel/air directly from the carb. The line with the filter from the tank goes to the inlet of the carb. Originally Posted by BFHFixit No As has been stated, when you push the primer, fuel/air should be pushed directly into the tank When the primer is released it should, fill the bulb by drawing/sucking, fuel/air directly from the carb. The line with the filter from the tank goes to the inlet of the carb. I tried that and it would not draw fuel through the carb. If bulb is pressed with this config it just stays with as if there is something blocking it in the carb. This is with fuelline from tank to carb and from carb to primer bulb and then to tank. No fuel will prime. Thanks, BFHFixit is right.you may have problem in your carb if you have fuel lines on right. Originally Posted by gh0st BFHFixit is right.you may have problem in your carb if you have fuel lines on right. You have a restriction in the carb, lines or filter..... If it does not work with the lines connected as I/we have described, then there is another problem. Again... there is no other way to connect the lines and have it work properly. Got it running. Thanks for all of the help. Here is what I found: BFHfixit and Ghost were right. That is the only way it would run. What I found on my 2150 is that it is the top line from the carb if you are looking at the carb installed. Mine has a black plastic elbow. This is what I finally connected from the carb to the small side of the primer bulb. The large side of the primer bulb goes to the tank which is a small diameter hole. I used the small fuel line and heated the end around some needle nose pliers with a match and connected it to the large side of the primer bulb. Three pulls after a prime and she is running like a scared rabbit. There is no way that this thing was like this when I started but it is running now, so go figure. Thanks again for all of the help. BFHfixit and Ghost were right... Of course they were...Heck, they said it should be connected the same way I've been saying to connect it from the beginning. I don't understand how you figure I was wrong. Doesn't matter anyway, just wondering. Originally Posted by cheese BFHfixit and Ghost were right... Of course they were...Heck, they said it should be connected the same way I've been saying to connect it from the beginning. I don't understand how you figure I was wrong. Doesn't matter anyway, just wondering. Of course you were not wrong either cheese, neither was anyone else...I think Airman has hit on something with the red text hehehe New day, new attitude. I just re-read this and noted my negative attitude. Sorry if I came across badly. I just get frustrated when on this and other threads, folks ask connect their fuel lines, then decide to connect them differently, then post back asking why their equipment doesn't work with their fuel lines connected wrong. Then they finally connect them right and say so and so was right, they were connected wrong. It leaves me scratching my head. However, I do not do this for the recognition of being right or wrong, I do this to help people. I apologize for being thin skinned and letting a little thing bug me like that. I want to convey myself as approachable and friendly, not sour. Shame on me, but look out, I'm gonna do better on the next one! Cheese Hey cheese. I just had to register so I could weigh in on this topic. You did a great job on describing the way it works. I also had a fuel line problem with a chainsaw. Took it apart and found fuel lines deteriated so I didn't know the orginal route of the fuel lines. You guys helped me alot. I needed to know two things. 1) Identify the inlet/outlet of the Walbro (walbro.com) carb and 2) Learn that the primer sucks. You made item #2 very clear. THE PRIMER SUCKS AIR FROM THE CARB WHICH IN TURNS SUCKS GAS INTO THE CARB FROM THE FILTER LINE. online help is awesome....thanx to all on this forum. signing off, dbteeitup Glad you found what you needed here, and welcome to doityourself! Hi All, Wow, nice to see this thread is still going ! Like dbteeitup, I Also signed up to weigh in on how confusing it may be to put things together once they are apart..yet after reading this thread it made perfect sense (even if I read it 3x to make sure) lol Now to my problem, All lines are have been hooked up correctly. Lines and filter are new clear, but plunger gets stuck in (like its under a vaccum) after 2 presses ! Plunger seems fine works well outside of the unit..So Im guessing the carb is clogged ? I pulled the carb the gaskets/screen looked fine...nothing punctured or looking clogged. Pulled out a Mityvac pulled some vaccum on the carb outlet (suction) side everything seemed good.. How far can I tear down this carb before Im doing more harm than good, and what would/should I replace before buying a new one ? Thanks in advance. You may need to replace the diaphragm and gaskets. The screen should be removed and cleaned and then verify that the passage behind the screen is clear to the needle/seat area on the other side of the carb. This is where the fuel flows through the carb body when priming it. As has been stated, when you push the primer, fuel/air should be pushed directly into the tank When the primer is released it should, fill the bulb by drawing/sucking, fuel/air directly from the carb. The line with the filter from the tank goes to the inlet of the carb. newbie here... having a similar issue, but with complications... my Poulon chainsaw is nearly 10 years old, and i dont use it much. i bought it brand new and never had it serviced, so its never been opened up, till now. all my lawn machines are about the same age, and they all run terrible. what the universal problem seems to be is old, rotted fuel lines. i replaced them in my weed whacker and push mower, and they run great now. so naturally, i looked at them in my chainsaw. sure enough, the ones inside the tank, with the fuel filter on it, rotted completely, to the point where the line wasnt in the fuel anymore, and the filter was rolling around loose inside the tank. all the other lines are original. theyve turned hard and arnt as flexible as they used to be im sure, but they seem solid and good, so i dont think i need to replace them. the problem im having is, i dont know which line the fuel filter goes on. i read this thread, and the quote above in red, and it seems to explain the fuel flow fairly well, except i dont know which line on my carb is the carb inlet. and the original piping seems to differ from the above discription as well. i have a very short (original) line going from the bottom of the carb to the top carb' side of the primer bulb. an original long line going from the bottom 'tank bulb to the tank. inside the tank, that line has a fitting on it that (looks to me) like it should be where the fuel filter should go, by attaching a short hose jumper on it. i have another very skinny line (but still long, original) going from the top of the carb, directly into the tank. no fitting inside the tank on that line. when i push the primer bulb, all i get is a gurgling sound. it doesnt fill the bulb, and doesnt seem to draw any fuel from the tank, thru the carb. the way i have it now, i have the filter on the primer bulb tank line, with the smaller line (going directly to the top of the carb), unfiltered. is this correct? it doesnt seem so, reading the flow from above, but then, what is that fitting for, if not the filter? which line on the carb is the inlet? top or bottom? how can i tell? hope this makes sense, and is clear... hope you can help! thanx! The thin line going into the tank should be long enough to reach the bottom and lay there with the filter attached to it. The other end to the top of the carb. thats it! thats all i needed! moved the fuel filter to the small line and it runs like new again! thanx! geee... i feel like a pro now! -think ill go fix my friends chainsaw now! Great! Glad to help. ________________ If you push the primer bulb, and it creates a vacuum/collapses, you need to try swapping the lines on the carb. I say this bacause so many people say they put the fuel lines back the way they were. And they honestly believe they did, but it is easy to mess up. So if you have enough fuel line to swap them, then give it a try. some carbs are confusing on which is IN and OUT. Some carbs are mounted upside down compared to others. Following the instructions mentioned above you should get it working. Remember if two sizes if fuel line, small is fuel filter and fuel to the carb. Big is vent to the tank, or out. This applies to primer bulb on the carb, or stand alone primer bulb. If you have been running a unit that either has the fuel filter broken off the fuel line, or you have the lines backward and are sucking fuel through an un-filtered fuel line, then you have the potential to clog the screen filter in the carburetor. It sits opposite the needle. can be found on the side opposite the wagon wheel diaphragm. Sometimes, once cleaned and reinstalled, and you have pushed the primer bulb a lot, or actually have the unit running. You may have to remove the carb again to get trash that wasn't where you could see it the first time. Clean the filter again. Don't take anything for granted, or swear that you did it right when messing with fuel lines or carbs. Usually the problem is looking you in the face, but your mind (what you think you know) won't let you see it. Good luck. Since the introduction of Ethanol in gas, we have seen a drastic increase in repairs on 2 cycle motors. Fuel lines and diaphragms can't handle Ethanol. it will dry them out quick. I even saw one Poulan saw that was bought a year earlier and never taken out of the box. When the owner finally tried to use the saw the fuel lines were brittle, you could not touch them without them crumbling. Remember, they run them at the factory. Heat doesn't help either. If you aren't gonna use it empty the fuel out, prime it, empty it, and try to start it several times. That may help you preserve your lines and carb. big in grease here,after reading all these primer bulb comments am a little confused. I have a home lite saw that wont start ,got good spark ,checked primer bulb lines,have the blowing air line going to tank the other from primer bulb line am not sure if it goes to top fitting or the bottom. Thanks in advance for any suggestions. It is a Ranger 33cc with a walbro WT433 carb. Look at how the carb is put together. One side has a cover with one screw holding it on, the other side has 4 screws holding the cover on. The fitting near the side with one screw holding the cover on is the fitting that goes directly to the tank line with the filter on it. The other fitting goes to the suction side of the primer.
Related Posts:
Poulan 2050 fuel lines
Poulan 2050 fuel linesPoulan 2050 chainsaw. Fuel line routing? Replaced all fuel lines. Primer bulb is marked tank and carb side. Tank side is for larger line and runs into tank and fuel filter. C...
Primer bulb doesnt fill
primer bulb doesn't fillThe primer bulb on my Stihl power head (for edger/string trimmer attachments) won't fill. Of course the engine won't start as a result. What to check first? Check to see if...
Poulan wild thing 2375 problems please help
poulan wild thing 2375 problems..... please help!First off, I am a girl so please give me a break. Okay, I will try to tell you as much as possible. I bought a poulan wild thing 2375 from a pawn...
Poulan pro ppb300 gas trimmer stops running
Poulan Pro PPB300 gas trimmer stops runningI have a Poulan Pro PPB300 gas trimmer (31cc edger/weed-eater). I have not used it very much so I am pretty frustrated with it not working now. (My Poula...
Poulan chainsaw starts but wont run
Poulan Chainsaw - starts but won't runHelp - Let someone borrow our chainsaw and now it will start but will not run. Read some of the other post and have replaced the sparkplug and cleaned the air...