In my kneck of the woods now is the time when weeds grow at an amazing rate. I usually take out the big ones but the small weeds I try to spray and kill it. I have tried several brands of weed sprayers. All claim to do a good job, like kill on contact...or even guarantee weeds not to come back for a whole year ! Lies! I am yet to use a product with really good results. I am even willing to spend money on commercial quality products just as long as it does what it claims to do. Can someone recommend a product they have personally tried with excellent results? Thank you.
I think it depends on what you are trying to kill. Best to take some pictures to post (but post links through an image hosting sight) and let some experts take a look at this. I doubt anyone will just give you one exact product because for all weeds, I doubt it exists. Its been my personal experience, however, that killing weeds is only part of the problem. If you dont have strong grass in the yard you will do nothing but kill weeds all the time. Treat your grass well and the weeds will be choked out in time. Edit; Also, I may be wrong about this but some things like crabgrass are more easily prevented than removed.
Hi Moonlite, I agree with The Captain. There really isn't a 'one size fits all' chemical weed killer. I don't like using chemicals in the garden so I keep at the weeds a few minutes a day. What I use depends on where the weeds are growing. You don't say if the problem is in your lawn, in flower beds or in a veggie garden. Weed seeds will arrive at all times of the year and sprout when the conditions are best for them. Covering the bare soil in flower and veggie beds with a mulch will help to smother those on the ground and make those that arrive easier to remove. For flower and veggie beds I prefer to use a hoe. Here's some info on these easy to use tools. For the lawn, I tolerate some weeds, but having a thick lawn is the best prevention for weeds. This is accomplished with a combination of aeration, feeding the soil with organics and mowing high so the soil is shaded and weed seeds don't have as much of a chance of sprouting. For open spaces a radiant heat weeder works well too. I think there is only one company in the US that sells them. http://www.pesticide.org/radiant.html There are also flame weeders but they aren't always safe if you live in a drought prone or fire hazard area. http://www.pesticide.org/pubs/alts/pdf/flameweeding.pdf Here's an interesting thread. http://forum.doityourself.com/garden...ml#post1394156 Newt
Thanks for the responses. Actually, I'm in the sothwest desert (Arizona). Weeds just shoot up after a good rain fall and when the weather starts getting hot. They sprout from the dead desert dirt ! No veggies or anything like that. I say to myself they will eventually die on their own (haha wishful thinking). Instead, they get bigger and stronger. Then I go buy a tree and treat it like a baby...water, vitamins and the whole nine yards only to die on me in a month or so later. And my weeds look me in the face and laugh ! What can I say ?
never even knew such a device existed. Never thought of burning their roots to death. Seems like a more environmentally friendly approach. If you go with that, I would call missdig. The feed for my entire neighborhood for television is 3 deep in my lawn. I could possibly melt the cable if I didnt know it was there with that thing. But, chemical free sounds nice, too.
Originally Posted by moonlite Thanks for the responses. You are very welcome! Actually, I'm in the sothwest desert (Arizona). Weeds just shoot up after a good rain fall and when the weather starts getting hot. They sprout from the dead desert dirt ! No veggies or anything like that. I say to myself they will eventually die on their own (haha wishful thinking). Instead, they get bigger and stronger. That is because they are adapted to the conditions and their roots grow deeply very quickly. Read my signature and I'm sure you'll agree. Then I go buy a tree and treat it like a baby...water, vitamins and the whole nine yards only to die on me in a month or so later. And my weeds look me in the face and laugh ! What can I say ? You may be over-pampering your trees, planting them too deep, watering too often and not deeply enough and/or planting the wrong trees for the location. Here's some helpful info on plant trees and water them. This site is for professionals, but has some good tree suggestions and descriptions. It has music when it starts. Arid Zone Trees Good links from the University of Arizona Extension Service. Pima County Home Horticulture Gardening in Arizona and hot climate gardening with lots of great info. Gardening in Arizona Beautiful Borders plant, water and mulch trees. Plant Trees at arborday.org Transplanting Trees and Shrubs Trees Are Good - Tree Care Information Watering Trees and Shrubs Newt
Tags: best, weed, killer, Actually sothwest, Actually sothwest desert, Actually sothwest desert Arizona, Actually sothwest desert Arizona Weeds, after good, after good rain, after good rain fall, after good rain fall when, anything like
My whole house has wood baseboards, with what appears to be a dark (Cherrywood?) stain on them. The doors and all other trim are the same colour. Well, I'm painting my ensuite bathroom. The baseboards are pretty disgusting - a little faded, some cracks/chips, old paint on them, etc... I'd love to replace them with new baseboards. How do I go about matching the stain up with what I currently have? And does how the stain turn out also based on what type of wood the baseboards are made out of? What do you guys recommend? And what sort of procedure for staining the new boards?
The best thing to do is to get sample pieces of the trim you will be using and take them to a paint shop like Sherwin Williams or Diamond Vogel and have them match the stain for you. They're experienced in doing that and won't usually steer you wrong. I've found that oak trim is the easiest to match. It stains up consistantly, so getting the color right is pretty easy. The only problem you sometimes have with oak is the open grain getting too dark (turning black) with certain dark kinds of stain. Pine is often difficult to match because it just doesn't stain up very well- not like the way hemlock trim (another species of pine was very common but has almost disappeared from use today) used to stain up. Pine usually turns out a lot lighter than what you expect it to, based on the color samples on the cans or on the sample strips. You also need to use wood conditioner with pine, which you don't have to do with oak. You can certainly attempt to match the color yourself- I'd recommend Minwax oil stain, since they show you a color sample on the front of the can that is pretty good at representing how it will turn out. Oak will look almost exactly like the color sample, pine will generally turn out a little lighter. Get some samples and do some experimenting. Some stores will even help you open up some cans and try the stain out before buying it.
I agree that having a paint store match the stain is the way to go. Buy a few extra feet of base and then take a sample of the base along with a piece of the old base to the paint store. Most paint stores will help you get the correct stain [may entail custom tinting] for no extra charge.
Originally Posted by marksr I agree that having a paint store match the stain is the way to go. Buy a few extra feet of base and then take a sample of the base along with a piece of the old base to the paint store. Most paint stores will help you get the correct stain [may entail custom tinting] for no extra charge. So the paint store might actually apply a sample to the wood to get an almost exact match? Wow - that's the customer service I don't think I'd get at home depot. Definetely worth the couple extra dollars. Are my only choices for baseboards pine and oak? It sounds like Pine isn't the way to go for a good finish (Since it'll require a lot of experimentation), and I'm assuming Oak is rather expensive...
In my area, baseboard is usually available in: white pine poplar maple oak But it depends where you are shopping. Box stores often won't have every profile known to man, while a good lumberyard or millwork distrubutor will. White pine and poplar are the least expensive, but also aren't real attractive to my tastes. Maple and oak will be similarly priced and are likely twice the price of pine and poplar.
I've found that trying to use cheaper woods (pine, etc.) - ends up being more expensive in the long run because I have to use multiple stains to get the desired look. Oak (I love Oak) - is a bit more expensive - but takes stain beautifully. I consider my labor to be worth something (my wife doesn't agree).... and will pay the 50% more for oak to get the proper match (or close to it)......
Our local Home Depot has Hemslock trim - the grain to it looks nice, and it's not as expensive as Oak. The gentlemen who worked there said it would stain well - what do you guys think? Can I save a bit here, or do I need to go for oak?
Hemlock does stain up well. It's becoming less and less common to find real hemlock, however. Some places sell #1 white pine and call it hemlock, even though the two are completely different and don't stain the same at all. If it really is hemlock, I'd buy it!
With the exception of the crown mould my master bed rm is trimmed in hemlock. It stained and finshed well. Of course I could be prejudice since I cut down the tree and hauled the logs to the saw mill.
Wow, that sounds cool, Marksr! I wish we had decent trees around here to do that with! Did they make the mouldings for you or did you take it someplace else to have that done? My dad's got 20 acres of mainly cedar, mulberry, cottonwood that he's always dreamed of thinning out and logging. Too bad it's not all cherry, oak, hickory and walnut. If it was, it would be my retirement fund growing out there!
I let them dry in the barn and used a planer and a router to make my mouldings. I have 15+ acres, all wooded but it ain't no picnic to cut load and haul.
Tags: staining, baseboards, paint store, match stain, pine poplar, stores will, agree that, agree that having, agree that having paint, agree that having paint store, along with
Hello, I just bought a house with glitter-laden popcorn ceilings in many of the rooms. The house was built in '65, which from what I've read, was during the golden age of asbestos use in popcorn ceilings. I have contacted two companies to have it tested. Business must be booming in the asbestos-testing world, because I have not received a call back. Because I am penny-wise and lung-foolish, I would like to remove the fluffy stuff myself. I have read many websites with generally the same dictate: Cover eyes, nose, mouth and body; spray; scrape; contain; repeat. Sounds simple enough. Am I really signing a death wish by wanting to do this myself? Save for some ugly carpets (which will be removed in a short while) the house is empty at this point, so I'd like to do this before move in. Thoughts? Thanks in advance. ps. i live in california
Just have at it! A wide floor scraper or 12 mud knife may be a benefit...I never had to do it myself. There was a video posted quite a while back from someone with the same issue. They sprayed the ceiling and within 5 min the stuff was falling off in huge sheets from its own weight. Dropcloths on the floor would be recommended. My personal opinion is that much of the asbestos health claims are for those that were exposed during manufacturing, installation, or repair of the products. Not for the average person who removed ceilings or did brake jobs.
As long as the asbestos is wet - there isn't any danger. It's when it's dry and can be inhaled that you need to worry. FWIW - I used to spray that texture back in the early 70's and it would be an inch thick on my skin before I washed it off. I'd cover the floor with plastic, then wet and scrape off the texture. It comes off a lot easier while it's wet - safer too. Try to gather up the plastic and all the debris while it's still damp. Some locales are strict on disposal but most aren't. The odds are the texture isn't painted but if it is - you may need to scrape some first before the water can get to the texture.
That's all the encouragement I needed. Thanks.
I rounded off the corners of a 6 drywall knife to keep from gouging the drywall when scraping.
Good tip, Wayne. Thanks! It'll probably be a half fortnight before I take on this task. I'll make sure to write and let y'all know how it goes.
I've braved the sleet and snow for six of the seven rooms--My! what a mess. You don't have to be a scholar to remove the stuff, but the cleanup is for the dedicated. The last ceiling will fall tonight. Then it's time to prep for the knockdown texture. Now, I don't know a knockdown from a California, but I have heard I should prime before and after the texture. My wife has purchased some Sherwin Williams paint, is it OK to use Behr primer--or is that akin to putting a Camaro kit on a Camry chassis? Thanks,
There are many that say you should prime prior to spraying texture but I've never seen the need for it. Without primer the areas that don't have mud on them will dry a little quicker but in the end it will all dry the same. Obviously the texture would need priming either way. I don't know much about Behr coatings but not all primers are the same.... that's why there are so many of them. All primers help with adhesion but the different primers are formulated for different things, some are made for sealing stains, some for gloss hold out [enamel undercoaters] and some are made for priming drywall - just to name a few. I'd check the label on the SWP paint and see what primer it recommends [it will be a SWP primer] and then see how the Behr primer compares to it.
I like to paint the ceiling AFTER I spray a knockdown. You will see why. Tags: popcorn, ceiling, asbestos, popcorn ceilings, should prime, some made
I have looked everywhere and after lots of research I still can't figure out what series delta monitor shower faucet I have. The house was built in late 80's but it is in a basement bathroom, so it could have been finished after that. At any rate it is an old chrome lever with a seperate little lever on it to adjust temperature. I am assuming I first need to figure out what series to then be able to know what I need to convert to current series. I do not have an access panel so I am hoping to be able to convert old to new and just add a trim kit. I am not very knowledgeable with this so any help is greatly appreciated!!! Thanks.
Welcome to the forums! Would it be possible for you to take a couple of pictures of the valve and post them to a site such as photobucket.com and either give us the urls or copy/paste the codes to your reply post? That way we can see what you have.
What do you mean convert old to new? If the faucet is leaking or needs repair you can rebuild it.Delta parts are readily available and by taking the parts to a plumbing supply that sells to the public or decent full line hardware store the saleshelp can get you the right parts.The faucet body itself probably is ok and a rebuild would be all you needed. As for trim of a different style etc you'd probably have to talk to someone at a plumbing supply to determine if trim different from what you have was available and would work for your faucet.Replacing what you have with the same probably isn't any more difficult than the rebuild.
After some research I was told that delta has changed its valve so I believe in order to install a new trim kit (so as to update the look) I need to convert the old valve to work with new-sorry I don't know all the technical terms but I am trying to figure out what series I have, I know delta currently has 1700 series I believe. Thanks.
I have attached a link to a few photos of what my shower handle looks like, if that helps at all. I don't want to dismantle down to the valve until I know where I am headed with this or what I need! Thanks for any help!! http://share.shutterfly.com/share/re...YuWjZk1cMmTC3g
That is a 1700 Monitor Series Delta. You should be able to buy rework trim kits for that valve without spending the effort of reworking the valve inside the wall as the bolt pattern is the same for the trim plate.
I have exactly the same shower valve and am trying to fix a leak and upgrade to a newer style. I just got off the phone with customer support at Delta and they said that there is no product that I can get that would be compatible with mine. It seemed the main reason was because the bolts on the plate are at 4:00 and 7:00 (clock position) and all of the new ones come at 1:00 and 7:00. I said that I thought I could mount the plate with the one regular bolt and one long screw, but the guy on the phone said no. What happened with yours eventually? Were you able to upgrade or did you have to replace the plumbing in the wall? I really don't want to do that...
Ambo76, welcome to the forums. You can buy the trim rings with the lower screw locations. Not sure where Delta is coming from with that advice. Check the orange big box store. They carry a wide variety of replacement parts. And you can't use one bolt and a long screw, as the screw wouldn't have anything to bite into and would look a little dumb. Let us know if you have problems finding the plate.
Chandler, With the screw I thought I could get a long wood screw with a matching head and thread it into the wood framing that is built around the plumbing in the wall. Mickey Mouse, but I thought maybe it'd work. I'm heading there (HD) tonight and I'll ask about the part you mentioned, but my expectations are low based on my last trip to that dept. The Delta guys also made it sound like the cartridge connections might not be compatible with my 1500 series. There are some cheap parts I could get to fix the leak, but as far as upgrading to a newer style, they made it sound like I'm up a creek.
Here is part of an email I got from Delta (I called and emailed): Unfortunately, none of current trim kits will be compatible with your existing valve body. A new valve body would need to be installed in your wall to be able to use our new trim kits. btw, I appreciate your help, thanks!
that is an old version and uses different parts than the newer ones so yes delta is correct
It may be that Delta doesn't make new trim kits...but I'll bet some aftermarket suppliers still have some out there somewhere. It would surprise me if there wasn't something.
Hi there. I am also having a problem identifying Delta shower faucet. Anybody know what model this is ? Should I be able to get the parts? thank you rbc
Sorry having a problem getting photo link to work. try this. [url=http://s228.photobucket.com/albums/ee295/tariqa11/?albumview=slideshow] rbc
photobucket has an [img] link that you can copy and paste here and it will show your picture right here in the thread
Image hosting, free photo sharing video sharing at Photobucket It works...you just have to stop the slideshow and click the pic in the bottom corner. Nice boat btw....
Ok, lets try this again. http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/a...oto/new004.jpg http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/a...oto/new003.jpg http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/a...oto/new001.jpg Here are some photos of the shower faucet that I am trying to identify. Can you help? The cartridge assembly is broken.
Tags: delta, shower, faucet, need, know, series, photobucket albums, trim kits, compatible with, figure what, figure what series, http i928, http i928 photobucket
Garage door opener stopped working this morning. Even when I use the controller installed on the wall it won't open. I can hear the motor running when I hold the button. What could be the issue?
Take the case off...look for white plastic snow. If it's there, the gears need replacement. No access to that specific manual...but that's a common problem with that and other brands made by the same company. Is it a chain or belt drive? They use the same inner parts.
Also pull the emergency release and open and close the door, it should be able to be opened and closed with one hand and stopped mid way and have it stay in one place. If the doors binding it can cause the gear to stip.
OK i'll open it It's a belt drive
Here's a few things I've noticed Gears are in good shape. One of the spring was hanging and the aircraft cable was all chewed up in the wheel so I had to cut it off The belt is running but the arm that's attached to the door doesn't catch on the trolley Lots to fixed!!!
OK so after reading the manual I realized that the main issue was the arm that attaches to the door wasn't locking in the trolley so I put that in place and it's working fine. Now I need to know if I should replace the aircraft cable that's attached to the spring? Or the door can function without the second spring without putting too much strain on the motor. And also since it's open what should I use to grease up all the nylon gear?
Oh no! If a spring is not working correctly...fix it! The opener is designed to open a balanced door...which you don't have. Might work for a while, then you'll be replacing gears AND cables and pulleys. White lithium or silicone crease. They make special stuff..but those would work fine.
Great thanks for the help
you know..........if you dont 100% know what youre doing with a garage door spring, hire a pro. there is zero shame in keeping all your fingers and spending a few $$$'s. just a thought from a journeyman hanger who pays a guy to do plumbing...painting.......flooring.....i could go on..
Tags: door, open, aircraft cable, belt drive, that attached
2005 Impala--compressor clutch not engaging. I can pull in the clutch by removing the clutch relay and jumping the contacts so the problem is upstream of the relay coil. I suspect the refrigerant pressure switch but there are 3 terminals down inside the switch and it's very hard to reach--not up top like in other cars I'm familiar with. Which of the 3 terminals on the connector do I jumper to activate the clutch relay? Measurements on the disconnected plug find 5V on the gray wire, ground on the black and nothing on the red. All fuses relays check OK. I'm afraid to simply stab a jumper across the 5V the others in case it goes to the body computer instead of a simple interlock on the relay coil.
The usual way of testing the pressure switch is to service the a/c system to know whether the system pressure is above or below the switch setting.
Tried that. Took it to mechanic he said it's an electrical problem he doesn't do electrical Hoping for a quick fix so I can take the car on vacation Sunday instead of taking my truck.
try going to a parts store and finding one in stock. they usually have wiring diagrams for the switch in the box. yeah, not like the g'ol ones with 2 prongs, aye? or look up wiring diagram in a library.
I'll also add I have over 85psi static on both gauges at 72F ambient.
Originally Posted by ukrbyk ... yeah, not like the g'ol ones with 2 prongs, aye? ... And what's up with that--does it test low and high pressure now?
Nobody in a sharing mood?
Originally Posted by guy48065 And what's up with that--does it test low and high pressure now? NO, THERE WERE SIMPLY VERY EASY TO JUMP. no guesswork. and you should have about 70% difference in pressures between the lines. also, Google usually works well: YouTube - #x202a;HVAC High Pressure Sensor Testing#x202c;
Originally Posted by ukrbyk ...and you should have about 70% difference in pressures between the lines. Not for static pressure. If I could get it running, then yes.
I am pretty sure that the PCM (engine controller) actually controls the a/c clutch. it uses inputs from various sensors to determine clutch status. you better find a wiring schematic- or chance of damaging something! have you tried to register your vehicle on the autozone website?-they have online manuals.
Originally Posted by guy48065 I'll also add I have over 85psi static on both gauges at 72F ambient. so it has refrigerant in the system-enough for the low pressure sensor to close contacts
Originally Posted by guy48065 Not for static pressure. If I could get it running, then yes. i don't think you even should measure static pressure. but it's whatever. by now, you have all info, i think, including test the switch with 3 prongs, aye, mate? btw, i have jumped that switch, in 2 prong config, on multiple makes, and ECU never had any issues with me doing this. This A/C Manifold Gauge Set is designed to test automotive air conditioning systems (using R134A Freon only) by comparing the high side and low side pressure reading to the vehicle manufacturer’s A/C system specifications. The high-pressure gauge measures compressor discharge pressure, and the low-pressure gauge measures suction.
Originally Posted by ukrbyk ... you have all info, i think, including test the switch with 3 prongs, aye, mate? btw, i have jumped that switch, in 2 prong config, on multiple makes, and ECU never had any issues with me doing this. Didn't get any info on the sensor from this forum but luckily aircondition.com has its own forum and I got a knowledgeable reply there. My sensor is a actual transducer that outputs a signal proportional to the pressure. Jumping the contacts could damage the computer. So in the end I can't take my car on the trip but at least I did get enough useful information to be able to eliminate the obvious easy stuff.
i am very sorry 3 terminal switch check video i posted here did not work for you. glad you had it fixed. for the sake of others, i'll drop in some info: all those switches are transducers. it's a fency word for something that converts one type of energy (in this case - pressure) into another type of energy (in this case - electricity): A transducer is a device that converts one type of energy to another. The conversion can be to/from electrical, electro-mechanical, electromagnetic, photonic, photovoltaic, or any other form of energy. While the term transducer commonly implies use as a sensor/detector, any device which converts energy can be considered as a transducer. a/c pressure switch simply senses level of pressure applied to its end, called bulb, and tells the system if it's at specific level, safe enough to run compressor: A thermostatic expansion valve is a metering device that monitors the amount of refrigerant that enters an A/C's evaporator. When an air conditioning unit switches on, the compressor transfers refrigerant in gas form to the condenser. The condenser switches the gas refrigerant into a liquid refrigerant. The liquid refrigerant leaves the receiver-drier and enters the expansion valve pressure switch. The expansion valve has three points of pressure that work together to regulate the amount of refrigerant that enters the evaporator so it complements the amount of refrigerant burned off by the evaporator. The valve pressure switch receives pressure from the bulb, the evaporator and the spring. The evaporator and spring pressure work together to close the valve. The bulb pressure opens the valve. When the expansion valve pressure switch decreases pressure at the bulb, the valve closes. When pressure increases at the bulb, the valve opens.
Tags: test, pressure, switch, Originally Posted, pressure switch, expansion valve, with prongs, amount refrigerant, Originally Posted guy48065, Originally Posted ukrbyk, Posted guy48065, Posted ukrbyk, static pressure, type energy
I had thought I was once told that you can't place a garbage disposal on a system with a septic tank. I can't recall any reasons given why not, it was many years ago that I had heard this. So, can you have one on a septic? Are there any drawbacks? Thanks, Dan
You can have a garbage disposal on a septic system. However, most homeowners choose cheap over quality and therein is a problem. Choose a disposal that produces the most finely gound waste possible. A disposal will double the amount of solids introduced to your system and if your system is not able to digest it then you will end up pumping out your tank more often than normally required.
There's no law that says one must use single-ply toilet paper, either.
people with garbage disposals tend to throw anything and everything into them and grind it up. therefore you get more solids into the tank which wont break down like poo will. thats the problem. when the solid get too high, they go into the leaching field and clog it. now, if your family is like mine, they rinse plates off and the small bits go down the drain. I put a garbage disposal on mine but use it only to grind up the smal bits that get rinsed off. the wife and kids are supposed to throw the big stuff in the garbage can. so yes, you can have a dispopsal. just dont throw bones and huge pieces of food in it and youll be fine
Personally, I dislike disposers because people think they are a cureall for saving on garbage bags. I was impressed that Insinkorator disposers added a chemical feed bottle that injects an enzyme when it is used. They tout that this is for septic systems. Follow the previous post advice and you should be fine. Good luck.
If you have a septic system and garbage disposal, the EPA recommends grinding as little as possible. This is because too much organic material gets passed in the the septic tank where it can cause too much scum and too much sludge build up. Worse than worries about build up in the septic tank is clogging the drain fields. Septic tank enzyme additives are usually in such small amounts that they have little impact. Bacterial additives have also been found to have little impact when a septic system is overwhelmed with solids. Most septic system failures are due to clogged drain fields.
We do it the same as aarcuda posted above. So I think I'll add one we should be fine. On a sort of related note. I am a homebrewer am constantly pouring out 1/2 gallons of yeast out behind my barn. My brother who started working for a plumber a few months ago told me I should start dumping it down the drain into my septic tank. Should I dump all of it, about a 1/2 gallon of yeast slurry every few weeks, or just every once in a while. This should help chew up those larger pieces that make it through. Thanks for the advice, Dan
Growing up we put a cake (about 1 cubic in) of activated yeast down the toilet at least once a month. It does not take much. And, I don't know the difference between raw yeast and activated yeast, if any. I'd do a little googling before I put any of it down there.
A working septic system needs no help from you. A working septic system needs no help from you. There is a delicate balance of bacteria vs food in a septic tank, adding chemicals merely upsets this balance. Throw in bleach, and you kill down the bacteria, which has to recover, letting food levels build. Throw in an 'enzyme' and you increase the bacteria level, do it to often or to much, and they will eat all the available food and then die. There is absolutely NO reason to add any kind of 'septic tank aid'. Bacteria is self regulating based on the available food levels.
Originally Posted by Pendragon A working septic system needs no help from you. A working septic system needs no help from you. There is a delicate balance of bacteria vs food in a septic tank, adding chemicals merely upsets this balance. Throw in bleach, and you kill down the bacteria, which has to recover, letting food levels build. Throw in an 'enzyme' and you increase the bacteria level, do it to often or to much, and they will eat all the available food and then die. There is absolutely NO reason to add any kind of 'septic tank aid'. Bacteria is self regulating based on the available food levels. That's very true too... And, I cannot buy into the premise that too many solids will get into your leech field. Today's designs make it nearly, if not totally impossible to get solids into the leech fields. Even the older single compartment tanks that I installed years ago took years (meaning 10 or so) of gross neglect to start washing solids into the leech field.
Originally Posted by mdtaylor And, I cannot buy into the premise that too many solids will get into your leech field. Today's designs make it nearly, if not totally impossible to get solids into the leech fields. Even the older single compartment tanks that I installed years ago took years (meaning 10 or so) of gross neglect to start washing solids into the leech field. The only 'solids' I would consider truely bad for a septic system are ones that don't decompose. Cooking oils/grease, mortar mix , plastic candy wrappers, things like that. Any FOOD products will eventually decompose and get eaten, even if they do manage to make it into the leech lines. That being said, I never recommend garbage disposals. The sink isn't a trash can, and shouldn't be used as one. It is certainly faster to scrape food into the trash than to fuss with a garbage disposal.
Tags: garbage, disposal, septic, tank, septic system, septic tank, into leech, solids into, available food, food levels, garbage disposal
I have a 1 HP Craftsman Shallow Well Jet pump. It has been operating smoothly until some weeks ago. The pump is set to turn on at 40 PSI and turn of at 60 PSI. Water in the well is not an issue and there are no leaks in the supply line (from well to pump) There is a leakage in the line to my sprinkler valves and some hose connections, making the pump to normaly switch on every couple of hours (varying between 6 adn 12 hours). Turning the pump of the pump holds its pressure rather smoothly for up to 12 hours Some time ago the pump did not turn of, causing teh water to heat to steam and melting some of the outlets. I fixed the outlets (replaced these) but fear that interanlly the heat damaged some parts. The pump will still start at 40 PSI but will not turn off in all cases. Sometimes it is sufficient to remove the AC Power and then it will build up pressure up to 60 PSI within seconds and turns off. I don't dare to let the pump be connected to the AC power since it may not shut off again. Please help
and there are no leaks in the supply line (from well to pump) Some time ago the pump did not turn of, causing teh water to heat to steam and melting some of the outlets. Steam doesn't build up from running. Water vapor is produced by cavitation. Usually when a pump is cavitating it also becomes noisy and sounds like gravel is inside. Those are the air bubbles popping. When you shut the pump off and the pressure pops up, that's also the air bubbles popping. Most of the time, cavitation is caused by a leak on the suction side. So get some shaving cream and test the joints. Slather it on thickly all the way around, then start the pump and look for little depressions or dimples. Take your time and make sure you swivle your head all the way around each loint including where it enter the pump. You really don't need that much pressure for irrigation and you really don't need a tank, either. If you were to eliminate it, you life would become simpler. Pump is turned on when you irrigate and off when you stop. Most lawn sprinkler control boxes have a connection to run a relay switch to turn the pump on and off. If you eliminate the tank, then just make sure that you don't shut off all the faucets at the same time. You can ruin a pump by making it push against a solid object. Easy way to do that is to have sprinkler heads that can't be shut off.
Thanks very much for the reply. I will check the supply line for leaks. Your idea of using shaving cream is new to me but I certainly will give it a try. Will let you know what the result was.
Originally Posted by willem K Thanks very much for the reply. I will check the supply line for leaks. Your idea of using shaving cream is new to me but I certainly will give it a try. Will let you know what the result was. It takes some practice. The first time I tried it I didn't see anything, but I had cavitation, so I knew there was a leak. I kept trying and looking, then after a while I noticed a little something that I thought was just where I hadn't smoothed the cream enough. Now I know to do just one joint at a time and really memorize what it looked like after I put the cream on. Then when it changes and goes down a little, I can find it.
A friend gave me her extra Black and Decker drill because she was tired of dealing with the charger issues. I looked up the BD charger in question (Black and Decker #418352-00 PS150 Charger - input / 120 Volts AC, 60Hz, 9W, output (NOM 10, 15V) 10.15 Volts DC, 210mA (NOM 11, 6V) 11.6 Volts DC, 165mA for PS120 9.6 Volt Battery Pack - Amazon.com) and it has really awful reviews. Is there another charger I can use out there for a 9.6V cordless drill battery that's NOT from Black Decker? This is for a Black and Decker cordless drill that's probably nearing it's 5th birthday. Thanks everyone!
Unless you already have a new battery, it's probably not worth buying a 9.6V charger. At 5 years, the original battery will be way past its prime so for the cost of a charger and a new battery, you may as well buy a new drill with higher voltage. The new drill will come with battery and charger in most cases.
All 9.6 volt chargers put out the same amount, the problem is the battery configurations are different between the brands which usually makes it where a different brand battery won't fit Yrs ago I had a cheap oriental 9.6 volt drill but the battery would plug into a Makita charger .... but the makita batteries wouldn't lock into the drill - only the plug part was the same. While there might be another charger that will work, I agree with toolmon that you'd be better off with a newer drill. I was shocked at how much difference there was when I upgraded to a 19.2 volt.
Tags: battery, charger, black, decker, ps120, Black Decker, another charger, cordless drill, drill battery
A while back, I got a horizontal 33gallon 240V Craftsman air compressor from a friend for a great price. Only problem was that his ex-wife cut the plug off the end of the power cord. My garage only has one 240V outlet (for the clothes dryer).. so I picked up a 3-pronged plug (to match my dryer plug) to put on the end of the power cord of the compressor. There were 3 wires on the power cord - black, white, and green. I wired the green one to the center prong, and the black and white each to the angled flat-bladed prongs on the plug. I plugged it into the outlet (after unplugging the dryer), and the compressor started for a split second and stopped. Tripped the breakers (2x30amp).. I reset the breakers and tried again.. no luck. So, we plugged the dryer back into the outlet, reset the breakers and now the dryer won't even turn on. So, I'm guessing I toasted the 2 breakers on the 240 circuit to the garage. Is this something I can replace myself, or do I pay an arm and a leg to have a professional electrician come out? Also - any idea why the compressor wouldn't work on that circuit? Did I wire the plug incorrectly?
What is the compressors amperage? Have you opened the receptacle to see if there is a loose wire? A three wire dryer receptacle doesn't usually have ground. The center pin should be neutral. You should check that that is how the receptacle was wired. Is this an attached garage with a separate line for the dryer or is there a subpanel.
What is the rating of this compressor? Most compressor like this only run on 240v 15amp not 30. Example:
Is this garage is attached or detached ?? that will make a big diffrence on the codes and the correct way to do the repairs. If this is a attached garage then you should not have major issue but check the connections at the recetpales and let us know what size conductrors it is to make sure you have correct size. If this is detached garage then the bet is off unless you have subpanel in there the code is very specfic allow only one MWBC that it. Most light duty 240 volt air compressor I know they are useally wired for 15 or 20 amp circuit due the motor size { Look at the amps rating you will see why } Mine air compressor is monster compared to your due I have 15 HP driect drive { no belt } recetpating compressor and that have it own circuit { 3 Ph 480 volts } but let stick to the topic as Ray and HotinOKC saying about most common air compressor set up. Merci, Marc
Here's some more info... Here's some photos, along with shots of the specs and model number.. 240Volts 6 hp 33Gal 1 phase / 14.0 amps Model 919.152930
No ,reason it shouldn't have worked and even less reason you would have toasted the breakers. Try turning the breakers all the way off then on. Using a multimeter, test light, or solenoid tester check across the breakers for 240 volts. Open the receptacle and check the wiring. Tell us exactly what kind of wiring and how it is connected. Check the voltage between the neutral and each hot and check the voltage between the hots. If it is metallic conduit also check voltage to ground. Post a picture of the receptacle and a picture of the wiring.
Originally Posted by cal_gecko ..... There were 3 wires on the power cord - black, white, and green. I wired the green one to the center prong, and the black and white each to the angled flat-bladed prongs on the plug..... 3 wires Black, White and Green would suggest to me that it is 120V 3 wires Black, White and Red would suggest to me that it is 220V I wonder why she chopped the end of the cord....
3 wires Black, White and Green would suggest to me that it is 120V Not necessarily in the US. Unlike Canada we do not have special colored cable for 240v. This is especially true for service cable. The name plates shown read 240v.
Hey guys .. thought I'd post an update.. thanks for all your input. I turned off the main breaker for the whole house tonight.. went into the garage pulled the cover off the outlet. I could see where the plug arced to the outlet (the compressor was mistakenly 'on' when I first tried to plug it in, and it sparked a bit when I tried to plug it in)... I checked the wires and they seemed to be solidly connected to each terminal.. but I gave them a little extra 'tightening' just to be sure. I then went out and looked at the breaker box to see if anything stood out to me .. nothing obvious.. at this point, I figured that if nothing obvious was wrong, I need to call an electrician. so I put the front panel back on the breaker box, plugged the dryer plug back into the outlet, and turned the main breaker back on... just for SG's, I hit the power switch on the dryer... and it came on. I have no idea what was wrong.. but it's working now. I may get brave enough to try plugging the compressor back in again this weekend.. but I will certainly make sure the power is off first... and I will inspect the terminals inside the power plug to make sure nothing is loose or shorting out... Here's a shot of the power outlet showing the arc burns on the terminal..
Just as a technical note that is an ungrounded outlet. I don't think connecting the green wire to the neutral (center slot) caused the problem but I don't know if the compressor is wired correctly. Since the compressor needs a grounded 15 or 20a circuit I would recommend running a new circuit. If you just want to test on the dryer circuit do not connect the ground. As I said I don't think that is it but I wouldn't push my luck but then I don't recommend using it ungrounded except for brief testing and the dryer circuit technically isn't grounded.
Ray, That receptacle looks like a 4 wire setup to me. I see the bare ground coming in from the bottom of the sheath and is pulled up and to the right. Correction: 4 wire cable with a 3 wire receptacle...
The slit insulation on the red conductor is a safety hazard and should be repaired. I would use heat shrink insulation. I have two questions; is there a connector on that cable and is the back plate of the receptacle grounded? If not both should be corrected. For increased safety I would change the receptacle to a 4 wire one and change the cord on the dryer to match. I would also run a circuit for the compressor.
It looks to me that you don’t have a proper dryer receptacle. A proper dryer receptacle has four prongs plug (red + black + white + bare ground) connected with a 10 AWG cable to a dual 30A 220V breaker. Look at the back of your dryer to determine if you have an older 3 wire dryer cord (two hot wires + neutral) which is for use with ungrounded dryer receptacles or the newer 4 wire dryer cord (black, red, neutral-white and bare-green wire). Craftsman sells their compressors both to US and Canada and I will doubt it they manufacture them differently for both markets. In Canada a cable with black / white wires indicates 120V but to be sure you could check the wiring at the box on the compressor to see if there is any wiring schematic in there or other indication to tell you the voltage of the compressor I’m not an electrician but I believe that you have tripped the breaker because you connected the white from the compressor plug with the red or black of your receptacle
Tags: 240v, compressor, plugged, dryer, outlet, need, black white, power cord, cord black, dryer receptacle, into outlet, make sure
Closets serve an important storage function in the home, but you probably wouldn't know it from looking at the interiors of older homes. Back when these homes were built, people did not have the same storage needs as most families need now. Often you are lucky to find older homes with closets in the bedrooms at all, let alone ones that can tackle the expansive storage needs of the modern home. Decluttering and paring down your closet needs can help you make the most use of a small space.
Organization
To effectively organize a small closet, you should first assess your storage needs. If you plan to store clothing items, collections, shoes or toys, you should know the amount and size of what you want to store. Whenever possible, leave some room for future storage needs. To make the most out of a small closet, you should make use of vertical space, which includes installing racks to hang clothing and other items, drawers to store smaller items, as well as mounting shelves along the entire length of the closet wall that can store the most amount of belongings possible.
Considerations
Only fill your closet two-thirds of the way full, which is a trick that home stagers and real estate agents use to make a small closet seem larger. If renovating or closet organization systems are not an option for your small closet, you can supplement your storage needs with built-in shelving in other areas of your home or simply by using an armoire or chest of drawers.
Functions
If a closet in your home is just not effective as a storage space for clothing or collections, you can change the function of it for something more practical. For example, you can use a small closet to hold household cleaning supplies, such as mop buckets, brooms and spray cleaners. Another idea is to convert a bedroom closet into storage for photo albums or board games. If you remove the door on the closet, it can become a niche space for a small chair and lamp for a cozy reading area.
Removal
Still another option for small closets is to get rid of them altogether. If you have wasted space in other areas of the room, these empty spaces can be converted into larger closets that can store more necessary items. Modern closet sizes are approximately 16 to 28 inches in depth and 48 inches in width. To design a closet that will work in your modern lifestyle, assess you storage needs.
Economic geologists are geologists who study how natural resources are distributed. They study the cost to obtain the resources and compare it to the value the resources are expected to receive. Although economic geologists are geologists by education, the data they produce is of most interest to investment bankers, stock analysts and similar professions.
Education
You can secure an entry-level position in the field with a bachelor's degree but a master's degree is preferred, according the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics. If you want to do research or teaching, you will want to get a Ph.D. in economic geology that involves sub-disciplines such as geophysics, structural geology and stratigraphy. Course work in economic geology also will include courses in business, engineering and other fields outside of geology.
Licensing
Once you graduate with your degree in geology or economic geology, the state where you work might require you to be licensed. This is a definite requirement if you plan on teaching. However, some states requiring licensing of geoscientists who will be dealing directly with the public. Licensing requirements include education, experience and a passing grade on the state licensing exam.
Certification and Membership
Another mark of a higher level of training or specialization in economic geology would be voluntary certification or membership on economic geology organizations. For instance, the Irish Economic Geology Association requires members to have a degree in geosciences from a recognized university and to have worked in the mineral or petroleum/gas exploration field or have done closely related work for a minimum of five years.
Employment
There were 33,600 geoscience jobs in the United States in 2008, according to the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics. However, the number is not broken down by specialty areas, though 19 percent were employed by oil and gas extraction companies. Most of these positions would be economic geologists as well as some scattered throughout other industries. The geosciences field is expected to grow by 18 percent between 2008 and 2018. Much of this growth will be driven by the search for new energy sources.
That most Hawaiian of parties, the luau, is something that should be put your must-do list when visiting Oahu, way to immerse yourself in Hawaiian culture. They allow you to sample island foods, lose yourself in the soft strumming of a ukulele or learn to dance the hula to the beat of a koa drum. It's not hard to find the best places on the island to sample poi, fresh pineapple and kalua pig. Kick off your shoes, have a mai tai or two and enjoy the experience.
Royal Hawaiian Luau
The Royal Hawaiian Hotel on Waikiki Beach has been welcoming visitors since it opened in 1926. Though many high rise hotels now dwarf the structure, the Moorish design and bright pink color have made the Royal an unofficial icon of Waikiki. Every Monday night, the hotel hosts its own oceanfront luau, called Aha Aina--a Royal Celebration. It is a bit more formal than the traditional luau and one of the most expensive on the island, but if you want to combine island cuisine with first-rate entertainment and table service it is an excellent choice. Discounted rates are available for guests of the hotel.
On the western end of Waikiki Beach, the Hilton Hawaiian Village presents its Waikiki Starlight Luau celebration every week from Sunday through Thursday. Guests are called to the meeting place, the Ocean Crystal Chapel gazebo, by the traditional blowing of a conch shell and guided to the luau site. Take part in a pineapple toss, conch shell blowing contest or get your own Hawaiian tattoo. Join the group hula lesson. Enjoy the variety of traditional and mainland style foods, then the show Voyage Across the South Seas that includes Hawaiian, Samoan and Tahitian music and dancing.
Hilton Hawaiian Village Beach Resort Spa
2005 Kalia Road
Honolulu, Hawaii 96815
(808) 949-4321
hiltonhawaiianvillage.com/luau/index.cfm
Germaine's Luau
Located near Barber's Point, 27 miles west of Waikiki, Germaine's Luau has been welcoming guests to its private beach sine 1976. This luau is done in a more traditional fashion, from the imu ceremony (unearthing of the pig from the underground oven) to the Samoan Slap Dance. The western-facing beachfront location is perfect for watching the colorful Hawaiian sunsets. Tickets for the luau can be purchased online or through various tourist desks throughout Waikiki. Bus transportation from designated hotels in Waikiki to the site is included.
Germaine's Luau
91-119 Olai St.
Kapolei,Hawaii 96707
(800) 367-5655
(808) 949-6626
germainesluau.com/
Paradise Cove Luau
The most extravagant beachfront luau on the island is the Paradise Cove Luau, held on the grounds of the Ko Olina Resort on Oahu's western shore. A replica Hawaiian village sits on the property, with the various huts giving guests the chance to learn lei making, weave a hat or basket out of palm fronds or play the Hawaiian version of checkers using black and white stones on a large flat rock. Guests can dress in grass skirts and face paint and participate in the hukilau ceremony--the bringing in of the fishing nets. The imu ceremony is traditionally done, with chants and drum beats. Dinner is a combination of traditional fare including poi (taro starch) and haupia (coconut pudding) and western dishes for those not so adventurous. This luau is a favorite of families because of the variety of activities and the opportunity for hands-on experiences. Bus transportation from Waikiki is provided.
Paradise Cove Luau
92-1089 Aliinui Drive
Kapolei, Hawaii 96707
(800) 775-2683
(808) 842-5911
paradisecovehawaii.com/
Polynesian Cultural Center
The Polynesian Cultural Center, located on the north shore of Oahu, is a well-done theme park where guests can explore several Polynesian cultures at the same time. The center is really several different villages including Hawaiian, Tahitian, Samoan, Fijian, Tongan and Aotearoan (New Zealand). Each village is authentically recreated and gives guests the change to learn crafts, talk story and get to know each culture. Authentic South Pacific and Hawaiian food recipes are used. Considered the most authentic of Oahu's luaus, the Alii Luau operates Monday through Saturday and can either be purchased on its own or as part of one of the Polynesian Cultural Center packages. Transportation from selected Waikiki Hotels is included. Note: No alcohol is served or allowed.
Trimming a rack of ribs before coooking them is simple.
If you purchase your ribs from a butcher, you have no way of knowing what stage of preparedness the ribs are in. You may have to remove the skirt, the brisket and the membrane before cooking. In many cases, the skirt is already removed, but the rest is up to you. The membrane does not have to be removed before cooking, but its removal allows marinades and spices better access into the meat.
Instructions
1. Place the ribs meat side down on a cutting board to expose the skirt or flap of the meat.
2. Grab the skirt and lift up, cutting the meat from the slab as close to the bone as possible without exposing the bone.
3. Turn the ribs over, meat side up to remove the brisket.
4. Find the joints between the bones and the brisket. Start at the side with the thickest bones, and cut through the joints with a large knife. Make the cut as uniformly as possible to help the ribs cook evenly.
5. Remove the membrane. Slide a butter knife under the membrane, and lift slowly. Once you have the edge, you can peel it away from the rib slab. The membrane will be hard to hold onto, so use a paper towel to grip the membrane securely.
Porcelain enamel fixtures and appliances can withstand quite a bit of wear and tear, but inevitably something is going to scratch or ding the surface. Repair kits are available to help you repair porcelain enamel scratches and dents. These porcelain enamel repairs are simple to make. If you need to refinish porcelain enamel, the process takes a bit longer to accomplish, but it's still possible for a do-it-yourselfer to achieve professional-looking results.
Instructions
Minor Repairs
1. Wash the surface of the area where you need to make the porcelain enamel repairs. Allow the area to dry completely.
2. Shake or stir the bottle of repair glaze in the kit. Brush the glaze over the scratch or ding you are repairing. Allow the first coat to dry. Apply a second coat and let it dry, as well.
3. Use the small piece of fine-grit sandpaper in the kit to remove any rough edges on the glaze. Buff the surface with a soft cloth.
Refinish Porcelain Enamel
4. Sand the item you are refinishing with fine-grit sandpaper. Use a palm sander to help the process go a bit faster. You aren't removing all of the sink or tub's surface, just creating a roughened one so the refinishing compound has something to adhere to.
5. Clean the porcelain surface you are repairing with bathroom cleaner. Rinse well with clean water. Allow the surface to dry completely.
6. Cover any surfaces you don't plan to paint with plastic sheeting. Tape the sheeting in place with masking tape.
7. Pour some acrylic bonding agent into a spray bottle. Lightly mist the entire surface with the bonding agent and allow it to dry for at least five minutes.
8. Stir acrylic primer according to package directions. Pour the primer into the pot of a spray gun.
9. Coat the entire surface with one coat of primer. Avoid overlapping spray patterns to keep the primer from dripping. Release the trigger at the end of each pass with the spray nozzle. Allow the first coat of primer to dry at least 30 minutes.
10. Give the sink or tub a second coat of primer. Allow it to dry an additional 30 minutes. Clean the primer out of the painter when you finish this step.
11. Mix acrylic paint suitable for coating porcelain surfaces according to package directions. Add it to the sprayer's paint pot.
12. Spray the surface with the paint. Allow the paint to dry 30 minutes. Repeat with a second and third coat of paint, allowing each coat to dry 30 minutes. Allow the refinished surface to cure 24 to 48 hours before getting it wet.
Tips Warnings
Practice using the spray gun outside on a piece of scrap lumber before using it inside on your porcelain repair project.
Work in a well-ventilated room as you perform the steps in this project.
Some Moen cartridge faucets have stop tubes to limit temperature.
Moen-brand valves and faucets all have replaceable cartridges. Single-handle valves regulate temperature as well as water flow by means of strategically-placed holes in the cartridges. When you turn the handle, the holes align with the hot and cold water inlets. If you turn the handle of one of these valves too far to one side, it will deliver only hot water, which can scald you. To prevent this, selected faucets have temperature-limiting stop tubes fitted around the cartridge. If your faucet has a stop tube, you have to remove it before you can remove the cartridge.
Instructions
1. Turn off the water to the faucet, either by turning off the angle stop, which is the shutoff valve located under the sink, or by turning off the main water supply to the house.
2. Unscrew the screw holding the handle to the faucet stem with a Phillips screwdriver. If the handle is plastic, you may have to pry off a cap first. Use a slot screwdriver to do this. If the handle is a lever, look for a nut located under the lever and unscrew it with an Allen wrench.
3. Lift off the handle to expose the cartridge. The stop tube will be fitted around it. Grasp the stop tube with a pair of pliers and pull it out. Continue to Step 4 if the stop tube won't pull right out.
4. Spray a little thread lubricant on the outside of the tube if it is stuck. Wait about 5 minutes, then try pulling it again.
5. Spray white vinegar on the outside of the tube if mineral deposits have collected and fused it to the faucet body. You may have to wait overnight for the vinegar to dissolve the deposits. Once they have dissolved, the tube should slide right out.
Tips Warnings
After you have taken out the tube, you can remove the pin and pull out the cartridge if you need to service it.
Decorate an ice cream cake to celebrate a birthday.
Transform a plain box of cake mix into a giant ice cream sandwich by adding a layer of rich and creamy ice cream. You can use devil food's cake and vanilla ice cream to mimic a typical ice cream sandwich or choose more colorful ice creams and cake flavors to match any event or theme. Serve your creation without any toppings to display the cake and ice cream layers or cover it with frosting to keep the middle layer a surprise until the cake is cut.
Instructions
1. Combine one box of cake mix, four large eggs, one cup of buttermilk and 1/3 cup of vegetable oil in a large mixing bowl.
2. Pour the cake batter into two greased eight- or nine-inch round cake pans.
3. Bake the cakes in a preheated 350 degree oven for approximately 25 to 30 minutes or until a toothpick inserted near the center of the cakes comes out clean.
4. Loosen the edges of the cakes from the pans gently with a knife and invert the pans onto a wire rack to remove the cakes.
5. Wash one of the pans to remove all traces of the cake crumbs and oil.
6. Line the inside of the clean cake pan with plastic wrap so it extends over the sides of the pan.
7. Thaw one quart of ice cream at room temperature for five to 10 minutes or until the ice cream is soft and spreadable.
8. Fill the plastic wrap-lined cake pan with the softened ice cream and freeze it for at least two hours or until the ice cream is frozen solid.
9. Place one of the cool cakes on a cake plate.
10. Invert the cake pan containing the ice cream onto the cake and lift away the pan. Peel the plastic wrap off the ice cream and discard it.
11. Top the ice cream with the second cooled cake and freeze the cake until you're ready to serve it.
Tips Warnings
Top the cake pan full of softened ice cream with sprinkles, crushed candy bars or chopped nuts before you freeze it to add more flavor.
You can frost your ice cream cake, if you desire. If the ice cream begins to melt while you're frosting, place it in the freezer for a few minutes to harden it back up.
Slippery shoe soles can lead to falls and serious injuries when walking on wet flooring or dancing on a slick dance floor. Tennis, hiking and casual footwear normally have a rubber ridged sole that allows the shoe to grasp the floor without sliding. Other footwear such as high heels or flats have a thinner slick sole that allows the shoe to slide easily over smooth surfaces. Stop your shoes from sliding by adding roughness to the soles.
Instructions
1. Run a fine-grit 000 sandpaper over the bottom of the shoe sole. Scratch the sandpaper gently over the entire sole. After three to four swipes with the sandpaper, run your hand over the sole to test for roughness. Continue sanding the sole until you achieve the desired result.
2. Wipe the shoe sole with a rag. Place a non-slip shoe guard on the sole. Peel off the paper, exposing the adhesive. Center the adhesive side of the non-slip guard over the sole and press it onto the shoe bottom. Rub your hand over the non-slip applique to ensure it has bonded completely to the sole.
3. Rough up the shoe sole by scraping it over cement. Hold the shoe interior and slide the shoe sole back and forth over the cement. Rough the sole until the shoe no longer slips on a smooth floor surface.
Tips Warnings
Refrain from deep sanding or roughing with cement as you could damage the sole by rubbing off too much material. Only sand or rough enough to remove the slick areas of the sole.
Cooking oil may help you create fantastic meals; however, oil can be messy, splattering everything in near vicinity including your walls, flooring and clothing. If you are looking for a way to remove cooking oil splatter, look no further. A few tips can help you clean up the mess.
Instructions
1. Clean up oil splatter on your wooden deck after outdoor cooking by covering the area with fine kitty litter. Allow the litter to sit until all of the oil has been absorbed, replacing with a fresh coat if necessary. While it may take a bit of time, the litter will soak up the oil without causing damage to your wood deck.
2. Remove oil splatter from your tile or linoleum floors by covering the area with two or three layers of paper towels. Place a warm iron on top of the towels, moving constantly over the surface. When you begin to see spots of oil on the paper towels, replace with fresh towels. When no oil soaks into the paper, the job is done.
3. Dampen clothing with oil splatter stains and wring out the excess water. Make a paste by placing a small amount of liquid dishwashing soap in a dish and adding enough baking soda to thicken the soap. Dip an old toothbrush into the paste and work it into oil splatter stains in your clothing using circular motions. Launder as usual.
4. Get rid of those pesky oil splatter marks on the walls around your stove with a bit of cornstarch and water. Place some cornstarch in a dish and add a little bit of water while stirring, only adding enough water to make a thick paste and then apply the paste evenly to the stained area. Allow the paste to dry and then carefully brush off. The cornstarch will draw the oil out of the wall and leave it looking good as new.
Headquartered in Mt. Hope, Ohio, Wayne Dalton has been manufacturing garage doors since 1954. Wayne Dalton partners with the Genie Company to provide garage door openers for its garage doors. Though the set limits and force controls for the garage door opener are preprogrammed at the factory, you can adjust them if the door has problems opening and closing or if it uses too much or too little force.
Instructions
1. Reset the overhead motor unit for your Wayne Dalton garage door before attempting to make adjustments to its programming. Depress and hold both the Open and Close set buttons on the overhead motor unit until the green indicator light flashes to confirm that the internal memory has been erased.
2. Make adjustments to your garage door's close travel limit. Depress and hold the Close Travel Limit button to cause the belt connector to engage the carriage assembly. Press the Close Travel Limit button a second time and hold it down until the bottom of the garage door is pressed firmly against the ground. Press and release the Close Set button to let the overhead motor unit know that the door is in the fully closed position.
3. Adjust the close travel limit for your Wayne Dalton garage door. Depress and hold the Open Travel Limit button to move the door into the fully open position. Tap the button repeatedly to raise the door to the fully open position if it stops prematurely. Press and release the Open Set button to save the door's fully open position into the overhead motor unit's internal memory.
4. Adjust your garage door opener to use the least amount of force necessary to close the garage door; this is particularly important if you have pets or small children. Locate the Down Force Control on the overhead motor unit; turn the control to the left to decrease the force used or to the right to increase it.
5. Turn your attention to the adjacent Up Force Control. Rotate the control to the left to use less force or to the right to use more force to open the door. Set the garage door opener to use as little force as necessary to get the door to open without stopping.
Tips Warnings
Keep an eye on the green indicator light when setting the open and close travel limits for your garage door; the light will flash to confirm that the limit has been set successfully.
Garage door adjustment instructions may vary slightly by model. Contact the Genie Company for model-specific adjustment advice.
Today's diesel engines can run on a processed form of grease. Common restaurant grease and cooking oils, when processed into biodiesel, provide an alternative to dependence on fossil fuels.
Biodiesel
Before grease or vegetable oil can run a car's engine, it must undergo processing into its refined form, biodiesel. The Chicago Tribune noted that in 2007 the United States produced 450 million gallons of this newly popular alternative fuel.
Sources
Used cooking oil and restaurant grease provide plenty of raw material for biodiesel. A Chicago Tribune article states that some restaurants get paid to ship off their used oil and grease for processing. San Francisco has launched a citywide grease recycling program, according to SFGate.com.
Grades
The U.S. Department of Energy lists several grades of biodiesel-petroleum diesel blends, noting that the B2 and B5 grades can power most diesel engines.
Pros and Cons
While biodiesel emits less pollution and uses largely recycled, renewable materials, it currently costs more and delivers less power and lower fuel economy than standard fuels, according to the U.S. Department of Energy.
Considerations
The U.S. Department of Energy warns that trying to use unprocessed vegetable oil or grease will harm a vehicle's engine and advises drivers to use fully processed biodiesel only.
Treatments abound for acne. They run the gamut from topical to internal, and all work to clear up stubborn acne breakouts. However, some of the more traditional treatment methods like benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid or oral medications like Accutane may not work for everyone. This has given rise to alternative treatments. An especially popular one is applying vitamin E oil to the skin to reduce breakouts and acne scars.
What Is Vitamin E Oil?
Vitamin E is different from other vitamins, in that lacking it will not cause a disease. However, the presence of this substance provides numerous benefits since it's an antioxidant and offers the immune system a significant boost. Since it can work to reduce damage to cell membranes, it works well as an agent for healthy skin. It rids the skin of free radicals and can smooth the appearance of damaged skin. Vitamin E oil is merely an encapsulated form of this substance that can be taken as an oral supplement or a topical application.
How Vitamin E Works for Acne
Vitamin E works in the treatment of acne because it reduces the level of free radicals in the skin, which can produce damage, blemishes and infection. Since it is an antioxidant, it can even have a role in preventing skin cancer. That being said, the most impressive benefits involve the reduction of new blemishes and the fading of old scars, including red marks and even pit marks.
Find Vitamin E Oil
Vitamin E oil is readily available in multiple forms. The most common form is a capsule that is filled with the oil. You can usually take this sort of supplement orally as a part of your daily vitamin regimen. However, some people opt to break open the capsules and apply the oil directly to the skin. Both methods are effective in the management of acne and acne scars.
Apply to the Skin
Even though vitamin E oil is very effective on acne, it may be too harsh for some skin types. To prevent a bad reaction, test a small area of your skin with the oil first, before applying all over the face. A good test spot is the inside of the arm, which is typically rather sensitive. If you don't have a negative reaction, apply the oil to your troublesome breakouts. Leave the oil on for a few minutes before rinsing with warm water.
Signs You Should Discontinue Use
It's possible to develop a sensitivity to vitamin E oil over time. Should this happen, it's a wise idea to discontinue use right away. Signs that you should stop and possibly seek medical attention include redness, tightness of the skin, irritation, rashes, worsened acne breakouts, eczema breakout or hives. If you notice any change in your skin (other than improvement) when using vitamin E oil, you should seek a different mode of treatment.
A franchise with loose ties to Home Depot. They were here today with a proposal to re-do our 211 sq. ft. of kitchen cabinets. No sanding or harsh chemicals. They use their own proprietary degreasers solvents to prepare wood, apply a sealer and tint or stain to the shade you want and put on 1 or 2 coats of a finish. Works out to $22 a sq.ft. They do the box frame at our home and take the doors to their shop. Sounds like 5 to 7 days. One side of cabinet door, only. They will show me the MSDS sheets before the start. They are a division of Harris Industries who also own ChemDry carpet cleaners. We have 20 y/o solid oak cabinets which could use an update. Any and all comments will be appreciated.
And how did they come to be at your house? Was it a cold call or did you arrange it through Home Depot?
IMO a light sanding is always a good idea although there are solvents that will soften up the existing finish so a new coat of poly will adhere well. But I would consider those types of solvents to be a harsh chemical. I don't know anything about that company. Did they supply you with any references of examples or their work? Be sure to hold payment [or final pay if applicable] until the doors/drawers are all installed and you can verify they all open and close properly.
ray2047: Saw an ad in BHGardens that had HDepot advertising and endorsements. We called N-Hance.
degreaser and solvent sounds like a cleaner to me and one of those liquid sanders to prep the finish for a new spray of varnish stain of some type then a clear coat. so clean, color and seal I don't see why you can't DIY this project for a fraction of what they want.. If its a water based poly just be aware they are not as durable as the oil based. for 22 a square foot you can get new doors. And DIY a cabinet reface for a whole new look. No fumes at all if you get the pressure sentive face frame veneers.
Sounds like a lot of cost for something which is a pretty straight forward DIY job.
Most of the time you can get new cabinets for pretty much the same cost. Not worth it.
Have you seen the kitchen cabnet re finishing kits you canbuy at Home Depot or order direct on line? From Rustoleum. I plan on using this kit to re finish my kitchen cabnets over the winter...check it out at: Rust-Oleum's Cabinet and Countertop Transformations™ - A Revolutionary Kitchen Transformation System
Both are some form of top coat... Rust-Oleum calls it a tint. Neither seems very attractive to me, if your wood is in good shape. Invest the extra hours up front and clean, sand, repair, restain, repoly, and enjoy the beauty of your work.
We ended up doing the traditional sand, restain with a few coats of finish. About $5K and it took two people a LONG time to do it. Lots of masking tape. Doors went to their shop, etc. Looks GOOD.
Tags: about, cabinet, Home Depot, coats finish, Sounds like, their shop
I am having a hard time finding a termite company that treats with Termidor according to the label. According to the label, exterior treatment must include digging a trench 6 inches deep, then rodding into that trench down to the footing, or do a depth 4 feet whichever is less. Then material should be applied 4 gallons per linear foot per foot of depth. My house has full basement all around, footing is 6 feet deep. They should be rodding down 4 feet and inserting 16 gallons (4x4) every 10 feet. By the book, my house requires 300 gallon exterior treatment. Had one company come out and they dug no trench at all, but then spent a total of 1/2 hour walking around the house poking at the surface here and there, never going more than 1 foot deep at any point. They probably pumped 20 gallons tops and they wanted $900 for this. Next I called the next higher price guy ($1,500) and he said he does dig trench but does not rod more than 2 or 3 feet down (he was a little vague). He said his rod is only 4' long. The most expensive guy was Orkin ($2500), salesman said that they dig trench but do not insert rod into soil but just fill trench with Termidor. Called the company manager back and he said that the salesman was incorrect and that they did rod into the soil (I don't know how far yet). Is this standard practice in this industry, to disregard the Termidor label and expect the homeowner to be uninformed? Is there somewhere I can rent the equipment and do it myself. I am not trying to save money, I just want it done right. Thanks
Chapter 2. The frustration continues I just hired another exterminator, after much contemplation. I proactively discussed the specifics, trench will be dug, they will measure the amount of liquid dispensed from the hose, they will dispense 8 gallons per 10 linear feet, it will take about 6 hours. First I needed to accept the fact that nobody trenches down 4 feet, even though that is what the Termidor label indicates that my house requires. 8 gallons per 10 linear feet is the prescription for 2 foot depth. In the end he dispensed 112 gallons. My calculations show that it should have been 173 gallons. In other words they shorted me even with my conceding the 2 foot depth. (By the book they needed to use 300 gallons. **But I did not get any Termidor!!! ** I had been monitoring the effort fairly closely, including looking inside of the truck. I wanted to come up with some way of guesstimating how much Termidor was used. I reached in and lifted up the container and it seemed full. At the end of the job I repeated this and it still seemed very heavy. I questioned him about it and he shook it and said that was about right. I asked him to remove the bottle so I could look at it. This took some doing, it was actually in a locked compartment inside of his truck under the pumps (I guess this stuff is expensive). It was full. He then explained that he had refilled the container in the middle of the job. I am certain that he did not for several reasons but I have no choice but to accept his word because I was not watching him 100% of the time. So in summary: I spent a whole day rearranging my garage, another day watching my foundation get sprayed with water, paid $1,300, and the termites are probably still having a field day. Please...someone out there must know where I can rent this equipment!! I am willing to drive 100 miles if necessary.
Tags: termidor, treatment, book, foot depth, gallons linear, said that, down feet, exterior treatment, gallons linear feet, house requires, inside truck, into soil, linear feet
I just bought a house that has a Honeywell Lynx system installed. I don't know any codes, and I don't have any key fobs that go with the system. I would like to reset it so that any existing fobs and codes no longer work, and I can program it the way I like. I should mention it is a Monitronics monitored system, but I called them and they are not currently monitoring the system. In addition, I don't have a land-line installed in the house yet (though there may be one left by the original owner that hasn't been disconnected yet). I plan to use the system as a local system only originally. Any help or instructions you can give me to get this system usable is greatly appreciated.
Start with the installer manual: http://www.nassecurity.com/manuals/ADEMCOLYNX.pdf. If you are not missing any transmitters, you may not need to default the unit, you just need to extract/change the installer code and use that to set a new master user code. Read through the manual, and then we can help you with any parts you have trouble following.
Thank you for the link to the manual. I have looked at it, and it has answered a lot of questions. I just wanted to clarify something. In a lot of the posts regarding various honeywell alarm systems, there is mention of a box where all the wiring connections are made. In the house I bought, I can't find this box. All I can find is the control (with the keypad). I have looked in the network connections panel, and the general electric panel on the side of the house, but can't find anything related to the alarm. Does this mean that my system doesn't have that wiring box? Are there systems that don't need the box, or don't use a box. I want to find the specific Lynx model I have, but since I can't look in the box, as other posts suggest, I am not sure do this. I did open the control device and saw a sticker at the top that gave several Lynx models (LYNXR, LYNX-S, LYNX-EN, etc.) so that didn't give me the specific model I have.
The LynxR is an all in one unit. The keypad _is_ the control. The front hinges down for access to the few wiring connections that this has. These are designed for wireless devices.
Thank you, again, Mr Ron. I have just one more question (I hope). I found all the program codes in the installation manual, and I am feeling confident about those data fields and the values I want. What I am not comfortable with is the zones. If I default the unit, I am guessing all the zones will have to be set up again, right? If I just go into programming mode and start changing the configuration in the data fields to disable the monitoring portions, will I affect the zones? What about changing things like times (turning off DST) and entry/exit delays. Will that affect the zones?
OK, if I understand it right, each sensor is a zone, right? So, if I reset (default) the system back to factory settings, I will need to detect each sensor and set the zone options for that sensor. I have 2 - 3 door/window sensors and one motion sensor in the family room/kitchen. The control pad is mounted on the wall in the dining nook next to the kitchen, so I don't have to pass the motion sensor to get to the control pad if I enter through the garage. So, here's my question: How can I see each data field and each zone and make sure they are configured correctly. I assume the system was working until monitoring was disabled before I bought the house, so if I don't need to change any zone settings, then I won't, but I want more than the default 60 seconds to turn off the alarm, so I need to know change those settings without disabling any sensors, etc.
To do what you want, you don't need to fully default the system. Now there is a possibility that the installer disabled local programming access, which would mean that this thing is junk, as far as you are concerned, but it's a low probability. Follow along in the sections titled: The Mechanics of Programming and Data Field Descriptions First: unplug the battery, then disconnect AC power. Restore AC Power Within 50 seconds press * + # at the same time. It should come up with 20 showing in the display. Press #20. The system will read back the installer code, one digit at a time (ignore leading zeros) Write that number down. To change the entry delay: Enter *35 enter your desired delay time in seconds (up to 99) Disable the dialer: *41* *42* *94* *99 to exit programming. Set a new master user code: [installer code] + 8 + 02 + [new master code] Test the new master code by turning on and off the chime feature. Don't try to use the installer code as a arm/disarrm code.
OK. Thank you. I will try that soon and let you know what happens. I have another, somewhat related question. The display is showing a LOW BAT warning for Zone 05 (at least there is a 05 in front of the LOW BAT warning). Since I didn't install the system, I don't know which sensor is Zone 05. None of the sensors are beeping or showing any other low battery symptoms, so how can I find out which sensors are assigned to each zone. I couldn't find those instructions in the installation manual or in the regular owner's manual.
A _good_ installer will write the zone list in the back of the user manual (which does you no good in _this_ circumstance). If it's just showing low battery, the fast and dirty way is to open the battery cover of the transmitters, one by one. If you are _lucky_ they wrote the zone number inside. If not, when you open the battery cover it will indicate a zone tamper. That's really the only way to deal with it other than having some one open one door/window at a time while you watch the display and take notes.
I don't know if this question should have gone into a separate thread, but since there is background in my previous postings here, I am going to ask it here. So, I finally got the system working. I found the installer code and reset the master code. I can arm/disarm the system. However, now that it is working, I have a question about the external sounder. I ran the test mode, and I didn't hear any external sounder. Since this was originally a monitored alarm system, it would make sense that they didn't install any external sounder. How easy is it to add one? Which one should I use? Any help in that area would be great.
Easy enough to add using terminals 11 and 12, but the current draw [120mA max] may be an issue. if you can use an indoor [e.g. wave2] as an exterior [i.e. in attic or crawlspace facing out]. Get install manual for more info.
These little all in one units have a pretty limited external sounder current limit (120mA max). So you will want the lowest current draw devices you can find. These things really were designed for things like apartments, condos and small businesses, so they tend to be a bit of a kludge to try to use them for a real residence intrusion system.
I found a device called the 5800 Wave that says it works with Lynx systems (rev. 10). I also found a site that said the Lynx-R is rev. 10. Could I use a wireless siren with my Lynx-R system. Do you have any experience with that?
Those 5800WAVE units do work fairly well. If anything, they are much louder than the built in sounder on the console unit.
Greetings... I'm back at the original post on how do you actually default the system. I understand which you may need a code to get back into the system and I was able to recover a code in system using method hold down *+# upon power up proccess. Now I was wanting to add multiple sensors and accomplished that through *56 but one enrollment the numbers were mis-entered incorrectly and it did not give me the option to delete it when I went back through that section. I also need to replace a broken 5816 door window sensor and need to delete 2 motion detectors which were lost. The enrollment part is fairly easy except the part of parameters mrograming mode. I wish I was able to enter voice enhanced zone programing mode but I am having trouble using the 888 code or am entering it incorrectly to access voice enhanced mode. I am referancing p.27 in the booklet I have which is the same as the one you had listed earlier. Start with zone 2 part C can't figure out what aa means or add caa for other zones, E is the loop number and I think I need to change it to 2? for door window sensors. System said check system, fault. When I attach magnet to sensor it beeps when I take away magnet it beeps as well. How do I fix it to just beep when only the magnet is separated? enroll mode is where I messed up one of the zone numbers for the window sensor and thought if I enter a 0 it would clear it out opps. also need to adjust zone voice descriptor door to back door and room to living room etc. also when I was in this part I got stuck on the announcement saying back door back then it just kept saying door every time I would enter a number. It was a little difficult exiting that screen part. If I am able to enter default mode original factory setting Does it sound like this option is easier for me at the moment or do you have any suggestions on what is best way for me to fix these errors. Thanks I've looked over the book but maybe you have better instructions... Step by step. sorry I compiled everything into one thread reply but these are the issues I am currently trying to figure out.
C is the report code (for central station monitoring/enabling dialer activation). Just enter 11 (any non-zero value works). For the beeps, I think that these units chime on both open and close. It's not a configurable option. To completely delete a zone, you enter 00 for the Zone Type (location b). To just delete a serial number you enter 0 for the Loop Number (Location E) _Then_ you confirm the delet in location F. Use *84 to change the zone descriptor announcement.
I believe I own one of the first lynx series of production product? My pannel varies with this page in the book and only page so far on p.39 in the same book I've been referancing to. example which I thought on p. 30 p.39 voice vocabulary number part (ID) 14 should be MAIN, is actually number 25 on my control panel. using #25 voice say's MAIN. Same as #47 my voice descriptor says Third..Do You have any other information I can use via websites? I am trying to re-number this page in the book for myself, unless I can find the actual book or page. I am currently stuck at the number or #47 trying to figure out what actual numbers mine are for downstairs, family room, guest room, living room, master beedroom, nursery, outside, utility room etc... Since I figured out den was really not den on mine and it's actually kitchen window sensor in my system in the past but I do not have those sensors so I am trying to rename each one and till I figure out the ones I've listed I am stuck. Kitchen on mine is #21. Does any of this information sound familar? Thanks alot
Here, try this version: http://www.walkerhomesecurity.com/ho...mco/lynxii.pdf
Right on? This looks much better Current referance book was different from my panel as well on p.9 as to your website link book p.8 is exactly just like mine, Perfect The battery installation section is something I did not know about. learn something new every day That's a good thing I appreciate it alot.. Hahaha The funny thing is that this only goes to 47. Wow what an amazement of how technology progresses over the years. So my voice vocabulary doesn't consist of everything I had listed or metioned of the # numbers those are totally extra and new formated, including east, eight, five, floor, four, etc. Sounds to me like I have a new refferance book, Thanks to you.
I have a Honeywell LYNXR-EN alarm system installed in my house;12 zones. This system was on a 3 year monitoring contract.I now own this alarm panel; stated in the original 3 year contract. We started the contract in 2006.We recently canceled the existing monitoring company. I want to use this system with a new monitoring company. The existing service, still active for 30 days, will not give me the master code so the new alarm company can take control of the system.I want to start the new service ASAP. How do I clear the blocked code so I can use this system on a new service. Would this default back to a factory new condition? Thank You, zack88
Tags: reset, honeywell, lynx, system, state, installer code, door window, external sounder, master code, default system, that this, this system