12 hp Briggs
I live in a ranch style home with two baths. When one toilet is flushed, there is a loud pounding noise in the lines under the house. The only way to get it to stop is run water in the sink. I'm not sure if it is the cold or hot water line. The house is only two years old. Recently, my 12 hp I/C briggs and stratton shut of, when i tired to restart it it backfired alot and gas is dribbling out of the drain on my carb, Sometimes it will start after much trying and idle fora few seconds and stall, or if i try to rev it, it just dies. Also,i think it is flooding because i cleaned my plug and it was wet again after one attempt. I think it is in the carb adjustments, There is a screw in the bottom of bowl, what is it? and another on top [NOT THE IDLE SCREW!] i think it is somewhere in these two screws. i dissasembled the carb and the float and valves are fine the jets are clean. Please help this is my baby More times than not a backfire is ignition related. Ideally, you need to check the ignition with a Briggs spark tester, part number 19368. Perhaps the ignition is weak or remotely possible off time. Just for grins and giggles...how is the oil level? Does the oil smell of gasoline? Post back with the engine's model, type and code and this will better help us to help you. I already checked spark, its is good and strong, the oil is at the perfect mark I strongly suspect te carb because of the STRONG smell of gas and i messed with the two screws and it started but stopped again Hello burke, You'll need to remove the carb bowl, clean it out, replace the needle and make sure the float doesn't have gas in it. If so, replace it too. already did that all fine and perfect i just need to know set the carb the screw on the bottom of the bowl is not set and there is a screw on the top that is messed with too If gas is dribbling out the drain, then there is still an issue with the needle and seat. The adjustments won't cause that to happen. The screw on top is low speed mixture adjustment. Adjust it 1 1/2 to 2 full turns out from lightly seated. The bottom screw is the high speed mixture adjustment, and there is no preset # of turns for it. You adjust it with the engine at full throttle until the best performance is obtained. Thank you ! i will purchase a rebuild kit I have just found out it is NOT the carb, i need a valve job on my intake! I was told it is fairly easy and i should be able to do my self. what tools will i need and then what exactly should i do? A problem with the intake valve would cause the problems you describe. Usually this problem progresses over a long period of time, getting harder and harder to start until it just won't hardly do it. To check, remove the carburetor to access the valve cover (pcv valve). Under it you will see the valve stems. Set the engine to TDC, and check the valve tappet clearance with feeler gauges. If the clearance is bad enough to cause your problem, there won't be any clearance at all. You'll ahve to remove the head, remove the valve springs, and grind the stems of the valves until the proper clearances are obtained. While the valves are out, check the seating surfaces for burnt or pitted areas. If the are present, you may be able to lap them with lapping compound. Thank you, I will do more research into all of that. Well, i removed the head and cleaned the piston, head, valves and all else and now it seats much better but i am still having a carb dilema! It is getting way to much gas, even with all the screws closed! There is so much that it is blowng out the air filter hole, Do i need a new carb? or should look for more adjustments? What about with the engine off? Does the carb still drip gas then? If so, the needle is leaking. If not, then I believe you might still have valve clearance issues. Especially if the fuel is literally blowing out the carburetor. There should be nothing blowing out the carb. A intake valve out of adjustment will cause it to do that. Originally Posted by puey61 More times than not a backfire is ignition related.... ....Perhaps the ignition is weak or remotely possible off time. Have you checked the shear key? Checked the shear key, it only leaks after cranking and it dosent start at all. if it does it is for 5 seconds then stalls. while cranking there is so muhc gas in it that it just shoots everywhere Check the valve clearances. That's the problem. Cheese is on the money, you have an intake valve clearance issue. Once you remove the breather cover and check the clearances with a feeler guage, you will see you have little to no intake valve clearance. You will have to remove such (i'd suggest doing the exhaust as well) and grind down the stem(s) in order to get the proper clearance(s) to the following; Intake - .006, Exhaust - .010. Be sure to replace all related gaskets (intake manifold, breather cover and head) when doing this job and torque all critical bolts upon reassembly. I replaced the needle valve and seat, fired right up it still needs rouch adjustments i guess it runs rough. valve cearences are all perfecto I THOUGHT IT WAS FINE. I WAS WRONG, IT SHOT THE SPARK PLUG OUT OF THE HEAD WITH ENOUGH FORCE TO BREAK MY WOODED COVER!
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