Genie Garage Door Opener Won't Run
A visitor slid the vacation latch into the track so the next time the door was opened, it couldn't. Eventually I discovered the engaged latch, but now the motor will not run at all. It is a Genie Pro Stealth, model GPS1200IC; 12 years old, but only opened about 20 times a year. The optical sensors are working properly; the door moves freely when disengaged from the chain; we do not use remotes; the wall button causes the motor to click, but no movement; after a few minutes it will click again and is reset for another attempt. #1 - I'm wondering is there is a way to manually rotate the motor to ensure it and the chain are mechanically free? #2 - Is there a way to test the start capacitor or bypass it to see if the motor will run without the load of door weight? Or should my next step be to simply replace the capacitor? #3 - The schematic does not show any fuse(s) or breaker, so what is causing the clicking and apparent reset time-delay? Your help would be greatly appreciated. I have been doing Genie openers for years, and never had a problem with the drive unit, not even a burp. You say 'click', is it the motor or a relay click??? Any sound from the motor?? There may be a clutch., Or a thermal breaker that needs to be reset. Check their website, there is usually good info there. Thanks for the reply, Just Bill. I've listened to it more carefully and here's precisely what its doing.... The wall button turns on the lamp, and immediately causes kind of a triple-click (click-cli-click, in rapid sequence, all within a fraction of a second). Sounds like a small relay; could be a thermal but I would expect that to be a single click. Also a thermal normally would have a short delay before tripping. It's more like a self-resetting circuit breaker....since a CB would trip instantly with the full current load of a non-rotating motor and then reset itself. There is no movement or sound of the motor. An after-thought: Perhaps these sounds are the motor relay, the motor trying, and a CB trip. This scenario could have been created by the latched door causing something in the mechanism to be jammed....some how(?). One minute later there is single click, which sounds the same - but only a single, not triple sounds. Now it's ready for another attempt cycle. The lamp will remain on until it's normal timeout. My understanding of it is that there is no clutch, but perhaps a belt drive. The schematic shows no relay, breakers, or thermals; but that's not to say they aren't there on a PC board. I've not opened the case yet as it involves moving lots of cars and getting the RV prepped to be moved which it hasn't done in several years. I'll start working towards getting access to the unit. Once I get to it and open the cover, will I be able to manually ensure that the motor and chain are able to move? The mfg. site really didn't have anything for me other than the manual; perhaps I missed the more detailed service info.. Thanks again for assisting. Sounds like your problem definitely needs some further investigation, but this info may help you (coming from 18 years customer service in the garage opener repairs). A blown motor starting capacitor will almost always have a humming sound. The timer for the light relay is typically 4.5 minutes for most major brands. I'd open the case up and look for stripped gears. The gears are plastic and designed to strip in case of problems such as yours. I don't work in the business anymore, but I'd give these guys a call if you need assistance. I've bought parts from them and they seem pretty knowledgeable. Guardian Entry Systems - Home Tom I have the exact same problem GMC MH described. Was wondering if anyone has any update on root cause and what part to replace? I also noticed that if I give the door a short, but deliberate upward lift assist, the motor engages and the door goes up. Just John your problem sounds like a start capacitor. Generally when they go bad a slight push will get the motor started and it will run okay. That really is all the start capacitor does - gives the motor a boost to get going. Thanks for the idea. Unfortunately, this model doesn't have a capacitor that I can identify in the parts diagram. There are rectifier circuit board, receiver board, sequencer board, transformer and motor. Nothing the looks like a capacitor. Could it be one of the circuit boards? You probably have a model with the DC motor. I would check the boards for a loose connection. Especially around the small transformer. Anything with a little weight will cause this type of problem due to the vibrations. Your Genie Pro Stealth has a dc motor so no capacitor. But it does have a couple fuses on one of the boards, I'd look there first. Take the left side off first and look for a fuse. Thanks for the suggestions. Didn't find any loose connections and all the fuses are in good shape. Any other ideas on what part might be the root cause of what GMC MH described and where a short sharp uplift will get the opener going? Before we go further lets make sure we're talking about the same machine. If you have what I think you have a big transformer and a small motor. Are there only 2 wires to the motor? one white and one black? Did anybody figure out what the problem was? I have the same problem. What happens with my Stealth is when I open the door and then close it again, it works. But if I open the door, let it sit a few minutes and try to close it, it simply clicks, the light turns on and it clicks about three times. The motor doesn't even try to run. If I give it a little shove and then try again, it will work. The clicks are little connections on the circuit board. The first click comes from the sequencer assembly board, the 2nd and 3rd come from the rectifier board assembly board from the fast action 15a and 3a switch on the board. Generally these click at different times and not together on a regular cycle. I'm wondering if this is some type of limit sensor problem? I have the same issue as many of you. Actually this has happened several times for me over the past 2 years. Very annoying. Then after multiple tries it would start working again all on its own. I checked the door optical sensors to make sure it was working, checked the batteries, looked for any kind of reset switch on the unit itself but nothing seamed to make any difference. Then I read from a couple of you that a deliberate upward jaring made it start working again so I gave that a shot. Sure enough, that did the trick. This time the door was in the fully open position. It must have something to do with the door position adjustment. good luck. I hope this is helpful to some of you. I am having the same problem. Tried to jar the door but didn't work. I called genie to find out if the problem is the sequencer board or the rectifier board, she said to order both. Is there a way to tell which board is not working? I guess I will order the rectifier board since it is cheaper ($45 vs 60) I had the same problem. A couple clicks when you push the button but opener would not run. There are two fuses on the circuit board inside that has the relays. a 15A and 3A. My 15A was bad and replaced it and now it works. Fuses are hard to find. I actually went to Overhead Door Co. local office and they had one. Could not find them at Radio Shack or anywhere else.
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