cost difference - slider vs. double-hung or casement
Is there a significant difference in price between the styles, and when would you recommend one style over the other? Thanks! flukeslapper, Yes, there is going to be a price difference. To find out how MUCH, measure the window (width X height) and then go shopping for a window in whichever style you choose to fit that hole. Bear in mind that most sgl. or dbl. hungs can only be 48 wide, so you have to choose a style that is going to work in the opening that you have. And sliding sashes that are pretty tall but really narrow are hard on the rollers. That's where a sgl. or dbl. hung window works best. Casements have operators, and can only be SO narrow -- the operator has to fit into the opening. Thanks for the info! I'm assuming that the order of cost (from low to high) is: 1. Slider 2. Double-hung 3. Casement Does that sound right? A slider and a sgl hung are going to be pretty close in price. A dbl hung will be slightly more, and you can upgrade to the option (with either a sgl or dbl hung) of getting sashes that tilt in, to facilitate cleaning. A casement or awning window will probably be slightly more than a dbl hung. But my suggestion is to go with the style you WANT, and what will work best for you. IF replacing all of the windows in your house was going to cost $4K with sliders, going to sgl or dbl hungs might add a couple hundred $$ to that figure, and going casements might add another couple or three hundred $$. It's not going to be a HUGE variation in price. But you have to look more at the size of the openings that you are dealing with and go with that. A 6040 window is best done as a slider. (It would also be a great little bay in some instances, but now we're getting into more $$!) To do it as a hung window or as a casement, you would probably be looking at dividing it into 3 sections, and that is going to be more costly. Thanks a lot - that explanation really helped! My dilemma is that the house itself has no insulation in the walls, and I have several very large windows. For example, they're all around 51 high, and I've got one living room window that's 107 wide, and another that's 69 wide. It doesn't pay for me to get really high-end windows, since the house itself leaks like a sieve. My first estimate (for really good windows) was over $7500 for 9 windows (8 of them sliders). While I don't want junk windows, that just seems ridiculously high. Tough decisions ahead - but thanks for your helpful input! It's not so much tough decisions ahead as it's going to be a chunk of money and a lot of work. 'Price' is about the last thing you compare when shopping for windows. Start with the NFRC stickers. That tells you how well the window will perform. The lower the solar heat gain and cold air leakage numbers, and the higher the visible light transmission number, the better. Then warranty. How long, what does it cover, and WHO backs it. Finally, price. Start with some 'reasonable' windows and INSULATE, INSULATE, INSULATE!! The attic and the walls for sure. The attic is easy -- have it blown in. The walls mean that you'll probably remove the sheetrock or plaster from the inside to install R-13 or better fiberglass, depending on what your studs are. 2X4 studs need R-13, and 2X6 studs need R-19. DO NOT try cramming R-19 into a 2X4 stud cavity. Then resheetrock the inside, tape, texture and paint. Like I said, a chunk of money and a lot of work -- but it sure beats buying a new house!!! Originally Posted by flukeslapper Thanks a lot - that explanation really helped! My dilemma is that the house itself has no insulation in the walls, and I have several very large windows. For example, they're all around 51 high, and I've got one living room window that's 107 wide, and another that's 69 wide. It doesn't pay for me to get really high-end windows, since the house itself leaks like a sieve. My first estimate (for really good windows) was over $7500 for 9 windows (8 of them sliders). While I don't want junk windows, that just seems ridiculously high. Tough decisions ahead - but thanks for your helpful input! If you are worried about energy savings, casement windows offer the least air infiltration, since there are only four points of air to enter. All other windows have more cances of weatherstrip failure. As for cost it depends on if you are doing replacement or new constructi0on windows and wood vs vinyl. But usually in all cases sliders are cheapest, then doulde hung and finally casements. Unfortunately, I have only 1-by's between the walls and the brick , so unless I reframe everything, it sounds like my only solution is using the foil-coated foam board insulation, which is better than nothing, I guess. That's why I'm not placing quite as much emphasis on the insulating qualities of the windows as I normally would. Your advice is dead-on, though. Thanks for the help! Brick (or block) walls?? That is going to increase your installation costs quite a bit! If the 1x's that you are referring to are nailers on the inside to hang sheetrock on, then yes, adding foam insulation is about your only option. But, rather than foil backed, I would suggest using 2' or 4' wide Styrofoam (the blue stuff) that has a TG edge. It will be more air tight than just butting square sides together. It'll add about an R-4 at 3/4 thick. Yes, the removal of the cemented-in steel windows is a serious cost factor. I'm not sure whether they'll have to frame the new windows in, or if they can install them into the inside woodwork. Thanks so much for the insulation suggestion! Yes, the sheetrock is nailed onto furring strips. So, rather than putting the insulation between the 1-by's and taping, you're saying that I should lay the blue foam panels over them, and then screw the drywall in over that? No need for a vapor barrier? I also have to plead ignorant to the T G reference. Thanks again for all the help.
Related Posts:
Cost of an addition rough estimate
cost of an addition, rough estimateI’m planning to build a 16 foot x 24 foot addition (384 square feet), which will be 2 bedrooms. It’s a pretty simple addition, extending the length of my ranch h...
6 wood fencing cost
6' wood fencing cost?I live in Chicagoland area ( Joliet). I got one quote to do 140' plus a gate of cedar fencing. cost roughly $3500! that is $25 a linear ft. Is this the going rate??? My choice...
Attic insulation r30 to r60 cost effecitve
attic insulation R30 to R60 cost effecitve?HI Folks, This is my first post here, thanks for having me. I wanted to reply to this thread but I was not permitted to do so because that thread was too...
Cost efficient eltric heater for garage
Cost efficient eltric heater for garage?Hey guys, I have a brick garage non-insulated with dimensions 20'Lx10'wx8'h, I have been told I will need something in the vicinity of 30k BTU's so I am loo...
Cost of plexiglass
Cost of plexiglass?Hey guys! Quick question: If I purchase some plexiglass, about how much can I expect to spend per square foot? Thanks! I'm not sure anyone will have that figure at their finger...
